Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Restomods => Topic started by: HRTZ65 on March 22, 2019, 06:38:29 pm
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Hi
Introducing myself and my latest project. I'm a little Mustang crazy. I own 4 Mustangs, a 65 Hertz GT350 fastback replica, 2019 Bullit, 2017 Lightening Blue GT coupe and my latest purchase 69 Convertible. I've had the 65 Hertz replica for 8 years.
The project car is a 69 convertible. This car will be the focus of this thread. It is a Californian car that was imported to Australia 2 years ago by the guy i bought it from. It was garaged for 20 odd years. It is currently an I6 200ci 3 speed manual. Drums all round. Original colour was meadowlark yellow with deluxe white trim inside. Its build date was 13 Nov 1968 which i believe just gets this car in before the Australia ADR date of 1 January 1969.
As the car is not a valuable low volume or rare car i'm going for a Restomod build.
Plan is to do the following
302 V8 with rebuilt iron heads, holley striker EFI
AOD 4 speed transmission
8 inch diff with disc rear
Coil over disc front end (looking at RRS)
Back to metal body restoration looking at the Lexus Infra red as the paint finish
Interior i think i will go a custom job rather than TMI
Dakota Digital instruments
One outstanding item is the steering. I was originally thinking rack and pinion from RRS but the local muscle car guy says to go the Borgeson Power Steering pump. What is everyone's thoughts on this.
I want the car to drive not trailer around. For example i just did a road trip in the 65 up through the Snowy Mountains. had a great time but the engine gets hot going up hills and the drums overheat going down hills. The original steering is OK but vague and you need to really concentrate otherwise it goes off line quickly. I want the 69 to drive like a modern mustang but have the charm of a classic mustang so road trips are more comfortable.
I will post lots of photos of the car as is. The best thing is the car is very straight and has no rust (not that anyone can see yet).
I know it's not going to be cheap but hey, we only live once!
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G'day and welcome!
it looks like an interesting project and I think you definitely need a power steering.
I don't have one on my car, but mine is a stock V8, so a power steering is not really needed at this stage. I saw the Borgeson a lot in all the parts stores.
Definitely someone more experienced than me will give you some advice.
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Borgeson is for LHD.
Are converting it to RHD?
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Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing the pics.
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Here are photos of the car before work begin
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_0771_zpsddagqax4.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_0771_zpsddagqax4.jpg.html)
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6913_zpsokwatane.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6913_zpsokwatane.jpg.html)
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6892_zpsllfe0gr1.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6892_zpsllfe0gr1.jpg.html)
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6907_zpsh38yg9qi.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6907_zpsh38yg9qi.jpg.html)
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Thanks everyone for responses. To answer the question i will be keeping it LHD.
Did some research with some mustang mechanics and the Borgeson pump is the way . The mechanic has changed racks to borgeson steering pump in early 60's mustangs and all the owners are happier with the set up.
Also pretty sure i will go with the TCP suspension kit with upper and lower arms. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcoc-fd.html (http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcoc-fd.html)
So today marked day one of the work on the car. Here are some more pics.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6972_zpsxclq7frc.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6972_zpsxclq7frc.jpg.html)
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6968_zpssjasd2gj.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6968_zpssjasd2gj.jpg.html)
Looks like a factory sheet for interior options. Anyone seen something like this before?
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6973_zpsh0gnt47a.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6973_zpsh0gnt47a.jpg.html)
Drivers seat looks like its been redone at some stage
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6976_zps8vdcgvlj.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6976_zps8vdcgvlj.jpg.html)
New carpet was stuck down over the original car
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6977_zpsyxamvuv5.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6977_zpsyxamvuv5.jpg.html)
Drivers side floor pan very clean no rust :thumb:
If you look closer there is a sheet of paper stuck to the floor. Its all brown and no legible writing on it. What do you think this is?
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6978_zpszolizk5g.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6978_zpszolizk5g.jpg.html)
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6980_zpsun8sngxz.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6980_zpsun8sngxz.jpg.html)
Passenger side not looking as good. The heater has been disconnected so i suspect the rust has come from a leaking heater unit.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6983_zps1jqk95oc.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6983_zps1jqk95oc.jpg.html)
Got stuck into it with the wire brush. The rust was only surface.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6985_zpswqudmnzk.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6985_zpswqudmnzk.jpg.html)
Got the wire brush on the drill and it cleaned up great.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6986_zpsiwldokgp.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6986_zpsiwldokgp.jpg.html)
Floor pans look original to me. Can anybody tell?
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6987_zpsvkylhv69.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6987_zpsvkylhv69.jpg.html)
Underside of the dashpad. Looks like some factory markings.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6988_zpsyvsnpqtt.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6988_zpsyvsnpqtt.jpg.html)
Tomorrow i plan to remove all the heater and other dash items
cheers
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That sheet of paper in the footwell was most likely the factory build sheet. Shame it is like it is as it would have told you how the car left the factory.
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But there's another build sheet remnant in the seat springs. Retrieve and preserve it as best you can.
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If you haven't bought your running gear yet, this might be worth having a look at:
Ford Windsor engine/AOD 4 speed transmission combination,
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mooroolbark/engine-engine-parts-transmission/ford-windsor-engine-aod-4-speed-transmission-combination/1214104073?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android
Price: $950 Negotiable
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Thanks for the link dwayne. I have a windsor 302 which will get rebuilt but still yet to source the AOD. Probably go with a fully rebuilt AOD to suit my application.
Got stuck into the dash area today.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6994_zpsh1xx64gg.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6994_zpsh1xx64gg.jpg.html)
Heater core was definitely the cause of the rust on the passenger side
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6997_zpsnno0loe5.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6997_zpsnno0loe5.jpg.html)
The FM radio in the car is a ford part.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_6998_zps7hvzcgra.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_6998_zps7hvzcgra.jpg.html)
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7000_zpsf9ujie2u.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7000_zpsf9ujie2u.jpg.html)
That's it for today. Hope to get a little more done tomorrow.
If anyone is looking to buy a 200 ci 6 cylinder or a 3 speed manual gear box let me know. I have an ad on gumtree.
cheers
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:leaving:
Pm sent
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How much will a body rotisserie need at both ends of the car for the 69 body? I'm trying to figure out if it would fit in my garage?
How heavy would the body be with no drive line? Anyone know.
cheers
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Cool project. My 69 was on a rotisserie without engine , interior, body shell basically, Mounted via the bumper mounts front and rear.
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If space is a big issue (mine is) then consider something like this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5jGTtQYt/50286158-2134800149915408-8456403719464943616-n.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jGTtQYt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qtRxnQWH/50623532-2306348439599731-3867633610714513408-n.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtRxnQWH)
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thx dwayne i will investigate that as a option. Only needs to be for a short time while i clean and paint underneath.
What does everyone use underneath their Mustangs to protect the chassis and body? i'm a novice when it comes to car restoration as the last car i did up was a 66 Falcon XP when i was in university back in the early 1990's.
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There's a marine etch primer in the red oxide colour that is really good. Shaun will probably remember the name of it.
I'm using 3M underbody deadener on mine.
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So first you spray the etch primer and then the 3m Kahguard?
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So first you spray the etch primer and then the 3m Kahguard?
Yes, always need a good epoxy primer over bare metal.
I think the brand is Intergard, but can't remember which one. It's a marine grade etch, so extremely high quality.
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Working away stripping the car. Will post more photos on the weekend.
Does anyone in Melbourne have a dolly for a 69/70 mustang? Thought I would ask before getting one made
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Still chipping away on the striping of the car.
(https://oi1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7002_zps4fszh4rl.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7002_zps4fszh4rl.jpg.html)
Bit hard to tell below but this is the inside of the passenger door. It's been drilled, pulled out and filled. Will probably buy a new door.
(https://oi1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7005_zps5qvz2xzy.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7005_zps5qvz2xzy.jpg.html)
Cowl area has some surface rust but it will clean up fine.
(https://oi1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7009_zpsxm1vyjyy.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7009_zpsxm1vyjyy.jpg.html)
No nasties in the back seat area
(https://oi1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7012_zpsdnxc9sch.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7012_zpsdnxc9sch.jpg.html)
Could do with some help in what brakes to go with. Will being converting to 4 wheel disc brakes. I like the look of painted red calipers. Not going for huge horsepower with a fairly standard 302 rebuild. Should i go local with the likes of Hoppers Stoppers or get Baer or Wilwood kits? What do i need to know before making a decision?
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Your final rim sizes will dictate what brake sizes you can and can't use, time to do some homework..,
Not to mention the tyre choices you will find, as you may have read here lately, :bolt:
I like yourself have not long started a full body strip down, so there will not be anything left untouched, Have come to the obvious conclusion that 14" wheels are not in the picture and have my reservations now about 15" too, so that will open up my disc options considerably, so l may start looking at disc set options and work back from there...,
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I think i will be going with a 17 x 8 rim for the car so will have plenty of brake options to choose from.
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Mustang Steve has good kits for front & rear conversions.
https://www.mustangsteve.com/cobrabrakeshtml/ (https://www.mustangsteve.com/cobrabrakeshtml/)
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I think i will be going with a 17 x 8 rim for the car so will have plenty of brake options to choose from.
Good wheel choice for a '69 - will give you plenty of brake and tyre options.
I had Baer 4 wheel discs on my big block Mach 1 and I reckon they looked pretty good. :thumb:
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Hi, its been awhile sine my last update. The car has been stripped down and is now at the panel shop for phase 1 work. (Strip paint, epoxy, paint underneath and engine bay paint.
I've spent time restoring parts that will be reused. Must say i'm a big fan of Evaporust. Some photos for you.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7023_zpsk7tksb3k.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7023_zpsk7tksb3k.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7043_zpsyt2cktrv.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7043_zpsyt2cktrv.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_7044_zpsqylfxe4j.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_7044_zpsqylfxe4j.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/58244040995__9549C178-2708-4149-A8BC-50EFD4E44DD7_zps9zfcxeqp.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/58244040995__9549C178-2708-4149-A8BC-50EFD4E44DD7_zps9zfcxeqp.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1281_zpsafjheos2.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1281_zpsafjheos2.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1277_zps3jdyxlgt.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1277_zps3jdyxlgt.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1237_zpslklxkgkj.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1237_zpslklxkgkj.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1317_zpslxzxprxv.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1317_zpslxzxprxv.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1321_zpssqnlqzmp.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1321_zpssqnlqzmp.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1377_zpsfpu8qljj.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1377_zpsfpu8qljj.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1379_zpsbmgroxmg.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1379_zpsbmgroxmg.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1378_zps7rrchxee.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1378_zps7rrchxee.jpg.html)
The panel shop guy said the car had 4 layers of Paint. Original yellow, bright yellow, dark gray then red. The panels are in great nick and even the door that has been repaired doesn't have that much "bog" in it. :thumb:
I have a couple of questions that you maybe able to help me with.
i am installing borgeson power steering box. When i order new steering parts do i order Manual or power steering set up? The original car was manual.
I have both original 6 cylinder drum spindles and also have 1970 v8 disc spindles (pictured above). Which spindles should i go with for v8 engine and disc brake upgrade? The main differences i see are different tie rod size and 3 vs 4 bolt pattern.
Appreciate your assistance.
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I have a couple of questions that you maybe able to help me with.
i am installing borgeson power steering box. When i order new steering parts do i order Manual or power steering set up? The original car was manual.
I have both original 6 cylinder drum spindles and also have 1970 v8 disc spindles (pictured above). Which spindles should i go with for v8 engine and disc brake upgrade? The main differences i see are different tie rod size and 3 vs 4 bolt pattern.
Appreciate your assistance.
The Borgeson kit is designed to be used with manual steer setup. A car with original power steering has to have the drag link changed to a manual one.
If you're sticking with original style brake and suspension setup use the V8 spindles.
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Great work, loving the build.
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Thank Geoff for the advice, very helpful.
Cheers
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nice work so far.....
There is a great booklet called Boss 302 Racing modifications aimed primarily at making stock modifications to 69's to put them on the track back in the day.....relatively simple things like Shelby Drop, Shock tower gussets/ cross member gussets and plenty of various race inspired and simple mods aimed at strengthening and stiffening the front end etc....Nothing over the top $$$$ wise so maybe well worth considering before engine bay paint work......Results will be evident in the end...
I did a lot of the same mods to my 67 during the initial stages of my resto, including chassis rail connectors to remove the old ford sway and roll....
Following bare metal prep and epoxy prime, I used a sound deadener product called Lizard Skin for the undercarriage/ wheel arch areas and a separate LS Ceramic coating for all internal areas, followed by Dynamat......This stuff is tough...…and the car is super tight and quiet..
I went with RRS R&P LHD steering and pump assembly/RRS LCA's/ RRS adjustable srtuts....no complaints thus far
OH yeah, go the Hopper Stoppers so you have local support with a solid product....
all the best bro....
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Thanks Megzee67 for your input :thumb:
My plan for improving handling are
*shelby 1 inch drop
*sub frame connectors
*shock tower gusset
*1 piece export brace
*reinforced lower cross member
My intention for the car are daily driver so the above should be enough.
In addition to the above i'm planning on installing the roller bearing spring perches, idler arm from Open Track Racing and the Total Control Product Strut Rods.
cheers
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Latest photos from panel shop.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1450_zpsfgdrj83n.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1450_zpsfgdrj83n.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1448_zpsedize4va.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1448_zpsedize4va.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1447_zpsg0ma404a.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1447_zpsg0ma404a.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1449_zpsaqbu6pp1.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1449_zpsaqbu6pp1.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1442_zpsgovemwnf.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1442_zpsgovemwnf.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1446_zpslco1vsn3.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1446_zpslco1vsn3.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1441_zps4q3nwwlu.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1441_zps4q3nwwlu.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1445_zps8tuls3cl.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1445_zps8tuls3cl.jpg.html)
Lets see if thats a bad rust repair under there?
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Quick side note.
I was at a mates country holiday house the other week helping him clean out an old shed. I saved a couple of rush tools that he was going to throw out. i liked them as they looked old.
I soaked this old wrench in evorust and then gave it a quick wire brush. To my surprise the wrench was made by Ford.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1438_zpspntdo97g.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1438_zpspntdo97g.jpg.html)
Anyone ever seen tools made by Ford before?
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The final stage of getting the body back to metal happened on the weekend.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1468_zpsddfwqczl.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1468_zpsddfwqczl.jpg.html)
Can't wait to see it sometime this week. To me this is now the start of the build
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:pepper: :evilone:
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Well done, great progress.
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Some more photos after blasting
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1475_zpsggrxwk1x.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1475_zpsggrxwk1x.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1479_zpsfphjmido.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1479_zpsfphjmido.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1478_zpsu4wswhzo.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1478_zpsu4wswhzo.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1476_zpsewoz3eid.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1476_zpsewoz3eid.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1474_zpso4bnzqpl.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1474_zpso4bnzqpl.jpg.html)
Couple of areas to repair
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1472_zpscizkyycs.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1472_zpscizkyycs.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1471_zpszl0a0rsh.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1471_zpszl0a0rsh.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1473_zpss6d7xvbn.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1473_zpss6d7xvbn.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1470_zpstt1cqzfk.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1470_zpstt1cqzfk.jpg.html)
Epoxy scheduled for completion in the next few days. Then metal work will begin.
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lookin great…..no jaw dropping rust surprises
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Thx Megzee67
Only 2 rust repairs, rear wheel well in the pictures above and the battery shelf in the engine bay.
Should not take too long to knock the body straight. The one area that may take some effort is the trunk. The original fitment was not great so the lid does not sit straight. it will need some cutting and filling to square it up.
hopefully will post photos in next couple of days of the body in epoxy,
cheers
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Body has first quick epoxy coat.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1502_zpsmomufupb.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1502_zpsmomufupb.jpg.html)
rust area where the battery goes that needs repairing
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1506_zpswfamhoob.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1506_zpswfamhoob.jpg.html)
outer shock tower braces ready to be welded in.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1509_zps8zhwtaob.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1509_zps8zhwtaob.jpg.html)
Boot lid stripped ready for epoxy
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1513_zpsjrbme127.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1513_zpsjrbme127.jpg.html)
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nice progress......Just a small tip before you weld in the shock tower gussets...….Cut the corner off of each lower gusset corner, only 8mm x 8mm to allow yourself to spray a coating product into the area behind the gusset once it is fully welded.
Otherwise this becomes an inaccessible void, and the welding process will leave bare steel in the area.
I picked this up when I did my dry fit...Hope it makes sense..
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Thx Megzee67, great idea. Will take up your suggestion.
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Body repairs have started. 2 sections cut out ready to repair
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1549_zpsaejtceyd.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1549_zpsaejtceyd.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1550_zpsxdu7gxzn.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1550_zpsxdu7gxzn.jpg.html)
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:thumb:
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I swapped a T5 for AOD in my 66 a year ago. After checking out the options bought a totally rebuilt unit from Lentech. They will upgrade to your specs, and have options which supposedly eliminate a couple of weak spots the AOD was known for.
I very pleased with the trans, drives very smooth.
Lentech (Canada) rebuilt AOD street cruiser. Model AOD-CRS. 12” non lock converter.
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Re AOD you also want to see this... important info...
•Try to avoid pre-1988 models without rear-lube enhancement. It is likely that planet bushing damage may have already occurred, mandating expensive new gear-train parts as well as an updated output shaft.
•1992-93 E and F series trucks (those with AOD’s and not E4OD’s) contain the strongest production AOD transmissions. Included is the two-inch wide overdrive band (part of the Motorsport Wide Ratio Kit, which is highly recommended for full-throttle use of overdrive or towing in overdrive) and the now-famous "A" overdrive servo.
•All Thunderbird SC supercharged V-6 transmissions contain the "A" servo (its original application) and the strong H.O. V-8 style clutches but still use the 1.5-inch overdrive band.
•In situations other than those listed above, any 1988 or later V-8 AOD transmission (steer clear of the base V-6 units) should prove adequate for most AOD buildups. Base V-6 AOD units have the weakest "C" servo, and most V-8 units to include the H.O. Mustang have the "B" servo.
Also be aware that in 1991, production began on the AODE which is the computer controlled AOD, and was used from 1991-2004. So there was some overlap in production.
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great pics,following with interest.
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Thanks Marshall
What diff ratio and wheel size are you running?
What is it like cruising on freeways?
Reason i ask as i have a 65 fastback with a c4 and 347 windsor and it does not like cruising on freeways at 110km for very long. I've 3.00 in the diff. Did the fit of the AOD require body modification?
Drive-ability is important to me as I like doing week long road trips once a year.
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Does Marshall's car have modifications?
Check this - https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/1966-pro-touring-mustang-marshall-perron
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Seeing as you're doing major work to the car, can move standard floor crossmember back to correct position for the AOD box.
ShaunP has done this a couple of times.
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That's a fantastic car in the link. lots of great changes without changing the classic style of the car.
Thanks for heads up Dwayne. Does anyone have the measurements or photos of how the cross member needs to be altered? I won't have the engine/AOD ready to fit until after the underneath is done.
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Body repairs coming along.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1561_zpsbtj5qeza.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1561_zpsbtj5qeza.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1559_zpsxzydbwx2.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1559_zpsxzydbwx2.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1560_zpswet4ixdo.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1560_zpswet4ixdo.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1558_zpsisotvg1l.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1558_zpsisotvg1l.jpg.html)
Started the work on the engine rebuild. Step 1 stripping it down ready to send to machine shop.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1570_zpsjohav2v4.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1570_zpsjohav2v4.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1572_zpsgbwoakfx.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1572_zpsgbwoakfx.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1571_zpsbl5ugm9x.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1571_zpsbl5ugm9x.jpg.html)
Machine shop feedback not great. After cleaning in the tank and inspecting the block, this engine is too far gone.
I do have a 2nd block sitting here so have sent this off to see if it can be used instead. Fingers crossed otherwise will need to think about Plan B.
Will let you know how i go next week.
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Curious? When you say the engine is too far gone, you mean the block or engine as a whole? If it was the block, was it cracked, rusted out or just too worn in the cylinders, Doing a rebuild myself and all i kept was the block, replaced everything else, even the pan..,
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Thanks for the contribution reborn67
The engine block already had 40 thou over pistons and the cylinder walls would need another bore. The other 289 block i have is in better nick. i'm no engine expert so asking lots of questions and learning as i go.
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Been a busy week on the 69 convertible project.
AOD - after lengthy discussions with people more experienced in 60 & 70 muscle cars than I and arguing over the pros and cons of the AOD I've decided to continue on this path. I was then introduced to a transmission yoda who my contacts have used for many years and highly recommended. He has an AOD in his shop that he will completely rebuild with upgraded value bodies and other goodies to make a strong solid shifting AOD for my application.
Diff - Now that the transmission is sorted onto the diff. I'm going with 3.55 gears with true track centre. Its an 8 inch diff that came as additional parts when i bought the car. It will take some work getting it back to "as new" condition. Issues found bent axles, and collapsed spring mount. Both can be fixed. A drainage plug will be machined into the casing for improved serviceability and other upgraded parts to improve its reliability.
Engine - The machine shop has been too busy to assess the other block. They should get to it next week.
Brakes? Still can't make up my mind. I want 4 wheel disc brakes with nice red calipers. Looks is just as important as performance. I think it is down to Baer S4 or Wilwood. There are so many wilwood options its hard to work out which ones to choose. It also looks like all the suppliers in Australia don't have red caliper stock in Australia. I do like the Baer brakes but they are quite a bit more expensive.
Body update.The original car had terrible gaps between boot lid and rear quarters. If the gaps was set right for the boot lid across the panel on the back seat end then the left side would touch the quarter panel and the right side you could stick your finger through. With a little caressing the body shop got these results without unpicking the rear quarters.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1596_zpsf7thbmar.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1596_zpsf7thbmar.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1595_zpsadbdbysd.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1595_zpsadbdbysd.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1594_zpspypjhnzv.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1594_zpspypjhnzv.jpg.html)
You can also see that body work to flatten rear quarters is underway.
i'm really pleased with the boot fitment
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:thumb:
The boot looks much better now
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Well it's been awhile since the last update. While there hasn't been many exciting photos to update you with i have been busy ordering and organising the build phase when the body returns from the panel shop.
Transmission
The AOD has now been rebuilt to handle up to 650 BHP as well as upgraded valve bodies to improve shifting.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1627_zps5zjgftlt.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1627_zps5zjgftlt.jpg.html)
Torque Converter recommended by the engine builder is a 2800 Stall
Engine
The other 289 block i had was no good according to the engine builder. The engine builder found a 302 from an AU falcon. Once this was stripped down and checked, we got the all clear. The engine build will include 347 stroker kit, roller rockers and a mild cam. Once I know more details i will let you know as I'm relying on builder and mechanic to make decisions here.
Diff has been stripped but the build has been delayed by the brake kit not being here yet. Once the brake kit fitment is checked then the casing will be sent off for powder coating. There also seems to be a shortage of good quality bearing around. It still may be a few weeks until these turn up.
Body
Progress has been a little slow over the last few weeks. Rear and rear quarters have been filled and blocked ready for next primer coat. Work has now started underneath as well as engine bay.
In September i ordered from the US all the suspension and steering parts that I wanted for the car. Included in the order was subframe connectors which are required now by the body shop. After the order was placed I received a few shipping confirmation and forwarded these onto the shipping company that i was using.
My expectations was that it would take 3 months to get here and it turned out that way. With the number and size of the parts ordered i was expecting to hirer a ute/van to pick it all up. When i call to arrange a date for collection the guy said it would all fit in my car. I thought this sounded weird but went with it.
After collecting only 3 boxes and taking stock of what was in them i was missing 3/4 of the order. So after several emails/phone calls i found out that 1/2 the order was never sent by the seller and 1/4 of the order got lost at the shipping company. :ouch:
The missing boxes have been found and will be shipped next week so should get here early January. The remainder of the order is going to a new shipping company and should also get here in January.
The other issue with this order is that the correctly ordered subframe connectors for a convertible turned up as the ones for a coupe/fastback. We have decided to modify the car to fit rather than delay the body work waiting for the replacements.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1637_zpsuih3rjvn.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1637_zpsuih3rjvn.jpg.html)
The good news is that they don't hang down as far as the convertible part improving ground clearance.
Fingers crossed i get the body back in 2 weeks. This will have undercarriage and engine bay fully painted.
So the moral of this story is ensure that you clearly understand what is in each tracking confirmation and get confirmation from the shipping company of the number of boxes that have been backed in the container. Never assume it will always go smoothly.......
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:smilies: Looking good
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Well lots has happened since my last update. The main chassis is now done for this phase and the car will be back home this week and assembly can start.
Hope you all like the colour.
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1840_zpscxm3z6vw.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1840_zpscxm3z6vw.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1798_zpshenimroo.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1798_zpshenimroo.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1843_zps9mmysdrl.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1843_zps9mmysdrl.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1844_zpslfwdecf4.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1844_zpslfwdecf4.jpg.html)
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_1803_zpsps4nbfki.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_1803_zpsps4nbfki.jpg.html)
I'm still waiting on parts from the US. Some arrive this week, the rest should be here in Feb.
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Thanks Marshall
What diff ratio and wheel size are you running?
What is it like cruising on freeways?
Reason i ask as i have a 65 fastback with a c4 and 347 windsor and it does not like cruising on freeways at 110km for very long. I've 3.00 in the diff. Did the fit of the AOD require body modification?
Drive-ability is important to me as I like doing week long road trips once a year.
Diff is 3.5 Cruises beautifully, slips into overdrive at 95kph. Kicks down a gear when flooring the pedal at any speed. Ive just driven back from Summernats on the M1, 4 days at the speed limit and it was an enjoyable experience. I love the AOD. :smile01:
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Another thing to be mindful of installing an AOD is the position of the shifter. I used a Lokar 7A256-AOD-AFM which works good and has multipule adjustment options.
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Thanks for the response Marshall.
I have gone with 3.5 gear in the diff.
I was hoping to keep the original shifter and use the kit from CJ Pony to adapt to the AOD. I'll find out if that works in the next few months i guess.
cheers
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Hey Guys, Have been following this thread with much interest, and now even more so,
I am in the midst of a 347 build myself with the intent of putting a ' rebuilt ' C4 behind it, with much guidance and advice from many of the forum regulars, I would be going for a new diff between 3 - 3.5. My concern is being in Newcastle and doing highway driving from time to time the engine is going to be working hard for periods, so now l am wondering the pros and cons of an AOD myself, different sandwich plate, flexplate, tailshaft, maybe more that l am unaware of,
So I would appreciate any more info from anyone that has done this install and their hindsight thoughts..., Sorry to hijack your thread, might start a new one just for the sake of protocol...,Thanks Andrew,
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Yes Andrew, do that :thumb:
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My thinking and research on 347 and transmission. While i'm no mechanic and have only a little experience my decision came from reading, talking to experienced mechanics and another car that i have that has a 347, C4 and 3.0 ratio diff.
While i'm sure that a combination of 347, C4 will work nicely, my setup is not so comfortable on fwy/hwy driving over 100km/h. Factors reducing comfort are loud long tube header exhaust, standard torque converter, lumpy cam and standard water pump with custom alloy radiator. if i changed to hi flow water pump and changed to a quieter exhaust then i believe it would be more comfortable on long drives.
When discussing options for this build i was told by all the mechanics that i should stick with a C4. The reasons why they said this was
-C4 is a strong transmission and will handle the 347 better
-AOD are sluggish
-the fit is very tight
-not many AOD's in australia and transmission shops don't know much about them
When you read all the sites in the US the AOD is a very common upgrade and works well so i kept digging.
The shop i'm using to rebuild the engine then arranged to have their transmission shop come in and talk to me about it. This conversation sealed the deal for me. The transmission guy has built many AODs and he has one in his pickup truck. The standard AOD is not a strong but by upgrading the internals and valve bodies you then get a great cruising AOD. The value body that he uses also has a little trick that makes it work better with the standard shifter for a 3 speed C4. If you want to hold gears manually you can drop into low, then you shift into the next slot and once the AOD shifts you move back to low on the shifter. This will then hold 2nd until you click forward again which then moves to 3rd and when you shift to Drive it will engage overdrive when cruising. (Hope all that makes sense.)
I'm also going with a 2800 stall converter and a Holley sniper system (exhaust system still to be figured out). All of these factors should address the concerns i had about fwy/hwy driving.
Just my thoughts and research but please do your own research first before doing your builds.
cheers
Don
PS here's the other car i'm refering to
(https://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/IMG_0916_LI_zps06h0c9kk.jpg) (https://s1243.photobucket.com/user/dworland/media/IMG_0916_LI_zps06h0c9kk.jpg.html)
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The value body that he uses also has a little trick that makes it work better with the standard shifter for a 3 speed C4. If you want to hold gears manually you can drop into low, then you shift into the next slot and once the AOD shifts you move back to low on the shifter. This will then hold 2nd until you click forward again which then moves to 3rd and when you shift to Drive it will engage overdrive when cruising. (Hope all that makes sense.)
This is called the "AOD shuffle"
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i've never heard of that before. Thanks for your input Dwayne :cheers:
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Interesting reading, like you say. l will do more "research" and try to track down a good trans expert and pick his brains aswell, Thanks..,
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Looks like i lost some of my earlier updates but here are some photos of recent work done.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/gg560/dworland/.highres/IMG_2403_zpscfoymqoq.jpg) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/dworland/p/2f7e3076-fb45-4f17-a72f-cb9cf995779e)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/gg560/dworland/IMG_2417.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/dworland/p/8b72657a-0f90-4526-9f69-8c1432ce3303)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/gg560/dworland/IMG_2445.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/dworland/p/84a4d2ff-928a-4f6e-9775-2d8968fab1eb)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/gg560/dworland/IMG_2447.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/dworland/p/1bf839a6-605b-4027-8f38-93d78dbd10ce)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/gg560/dworland/IMG_2449.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/dworland/p/9c628a06-19ef-49bb-ad5c-738e33ec0df6)
Serpentine kit is made by Asutralian company Wheels within Wheels. Great service and quality.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/gg560/dworland/IMG_2497.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/dworland/p/9e1aa7be-7c05-4e47-9f3f-d0b9c43edda1)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/gg560/dworland/IMG_2498.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/dworland/p/1f429614-b208-416c-a6b0-f31c38c88cf5)
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While I haven't posted for over 12 months progress, all bit it slowly, has continued. Main reason for no update is photoshop introducing high fees and i have only just set up imgur. Hope this works.
The last of the engine fit up was to get the header on the drivers side (left) to fit with Borgeson Steering and AOD. I went with Pacemaker Headers. Once they were modified and test fitted they went off for ceramic coating.
(https://i.imgur.com/JSKpMsi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/alxhs9P.jpg)
The lower dash, steering column and glovebox all got a freshen up
(https://i.imgur.com/UFSCe5G.jpg)
Then fuel pump, fuel lines, ice ignition, aircon system installed and connected up.
(https://i.imgur.com/KXl5y4O.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wxoGLEa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LLcwU72.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RXYEjuB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FhOu615.jpg)
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Then it was back to the paint shop for final body work and paint.
First bumper bars were trimmed down for a tighter fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/CgdGAkN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6NKVAl3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5vPOMmg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rjmo0Mu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PfS0LwH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1qh4ZQc.jpg)
I then had the side scope removed by shrinking the panel.
(https://i.imgur.com/eWoPhLs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/p83muMY.jpg)
Once done the body was given one last epoxy coat. That was left to cure and then final paint commenced.
(https://i.imgur.com/dFk7RZN.jpg)
Base layer
(https://i.imgur.com/oanyxKE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3wAaEcX.jpg)
2nd layer
(https://i.imgur.com/2DlMSum.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hPTe8yB.jpg)
Then final candy layer and clear coats
(https://i.imgur.com/pqHFvbW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F0lUO9h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WJ8U1hA.jpg)
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Scope then fitted and prepared for paint. Look at the ripples in the next photo.
(https://i.imgur.com/KvXHz5g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hUaCkic.jpg)
Final round of painting included fenders, hood, side mirrors, head light buckets, stone guard etc.
Then is was onto final sanding process before buffing.
(https://i.imgur.com/KczbgIL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EUlUYLG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CHw1lq3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bedYtKq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c3dOXqy.jpg)
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Great work - what a cracking car to start with!!
Nice colour too - and man - I know why you cut n tightened up the bumpers!!
Great idea - considering what to do in that space one day myself, the repro rear bumpers fit so badly....
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Its been home just over a month now and I'm slowly getting it back together.
I started at the back of the car with refreshed tail lights (new lens, seals and vintage LED kit).
(https://i.imgur.com/wF7nTJ2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HHzoyjy.jpg)
Then the front.
(https://i.imgur.com/nlS50lD.jpg)
I'll send the grill off for paint soon just wanted it fit up to see what its like. Also installed new shiny bits and blacked out the trim in between chrome trim and grill. Also installed vintage led lights in the front park light housings.
Next, i cleaned off 50 years of crude off the door latches, installed new rubber bumper, greased and installed them.
(https://i.imgur.com/eWSXMOw.jpg)
I'm going with nu relic power windows for both door and quarter glass. You have to trim away some panel for the quarter window motor to fit. The instruction to cut the panel to make them fit does not take into account convertibles. I trimmed a small amount away and used a shim to give it clearance.
(https://i.imgur.com/DR4UA6c.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ftLWcu.jpg)
The door motors fit perfectly.
Cleaned up the quarter window tracks and reinstalled them with the glass.
(https://i.imgur.com/9ftLWcu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CS1uwtn.jpg)
Next job is the door glass which is not an easy task to install. Will provide update next time.
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Thanks Jiffy. I have original bumpers and they stuck out a mile.
It has created a couple of challenges. The front park lights needed a tweak and the rear license plate light will not longer fit. I'll make up a bracket and look for a LED alternative that fits.
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Beautiful project sir.
Great eye for detail and you should be as proud as punch..
I will also cut and tuck my bumpers as the fit is atrocious.. :sick:...any tips?
Cheers
Mike
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Thx Megzee67
Tips
* front bumper was straight forward. Photo above shows the cut and amount removed.
* trial fit and modify park light housing once bumper fitted up and adjust as necessary before paint.
* Rear bumper takes more time. It requires to be shortened and the sides built up. It will require patience and multiple iterations until its right.
* you will need to modify license plate light housing modifications as it is unlikely to fit once adjusted.
* Might as well take the opportunity to remove the bumper bolt heads and weld them in
Don't crash it into the future :lol:
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Thanks HRTZ65
Tips noted mate.
Definitely a must do upgrade /mod for the clean fit final look
Cheers
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Just thinking out loud here, if you make your cuts either side of the recess for the number plate on the bumper, will you still need to mod the number plate light? I have 15 inch wheel to go on my car, what size tyres did you go with? Cheer, Neil.
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unilec5544, you are correct in your point. In my case the modifications to the mounting brackets to bring the bar in closer to the body created the license plate light issue. Thanks for reminding me.
I'm running 17x7 front, 17x8 rear rims
Tyres are 225/45 & 245/45
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Progress has ramped up on the car over the last few months with the goal of having the car on the road for summer.
I used some angle aluminum to make a new license plate light bracket and bought the smallest light i could find.
(https://i.imgur.com/b8qDTeR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FOzIfAC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j2SZRFs.jpg)
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The biggest time consuming tasks has been wiring and plumbing.
(https://i.imgur.com/RXYEjuB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KXl5y4O.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wxoGLEa.jpg)
Where we could, looms and fluid lines were hidden in wheel guards or out of sight.
(https://i.imgur.com/xtqBLWw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CbPxZsw.jpg)
With a vintage air unit, sniper electronics, Ice ignition box, and digital dakota units, space in the dash area is tight.
(https://i.imgur.com/oz3oEmu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DZuzVQ9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jOK5Kxp.jpg)
We eventually got battery connected and started testing circuits.
(https://i.imgur.com/5A1rqGz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fMylxuF.jpg)
Finally achieved key milestone of engine start
I can put up a link to a video on the engine running but I'm not sure how to do it on this site. Any suggestions?
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Here is a video of the engine running.
https://youtu.be/dzoq6QwneKM (https://youtu.be/dzoq6QwneKM)