Big Block

Mustang Australia

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Offline rattusrex

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« Reply #25 on: May 28, 2009, 09:21:21 pm »
mustangs - made with spanners not chopsticks.
Eddie
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Offline Shermatt

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« Reply #26 on: May 28, 2009, 09:23:03 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by rattusrex
mustangs - made with spanners not chopsticks.
Eddie


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Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #27 on: May 28, 2009, 09:52:43 pm »
heheheheheheheh

you funny guys love it.

anyway i hope we over the chopstix part.

just to keep everyone happy not going to do the crazy jap engine conversion. lol never intended.

few more info on the mustang.

got more paperwork from the previous owner (my work supervisor). handed me the original owners manual with the warranty tag.

lot more photos and database of parts info.

its going to be fun putting this back together when i didnt pull it apart. what bolt goes where is going to be very interesting. luckily its all been documented over 20 A3 pages where it all goes.

sofirst thing is to choose a colour scheme that will go with the red interior.

do i go for one of the original colours from that year
Paint it Red
paint it silver metalic
blue metalic

though not interested in concourse car but i do want a good looking car.

so far my choice would be silver with black stripes and red interior. dump to a point that police may question it but still legal.













Offline soc123_au

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« Reply #28 on: May 29, 2009, 08:45:51 am »
A 302 from an EF/EL or early AU is a good starting point. If you are going for a pair of hairdryers I am assuming you are going a different EFI set up. Our other project car is an XP, the donk in that started as an EL 302. About the only thing left is the block, but it already suits a roller cam. It is now a 347, AFR Heads, weber style injection etc. No forced induction but it should be a beast. It all depends how nuts you want to go & the depth of your pockets.

I am with you on the benifits of turbos, quickest car I have ever had was a turboed Rx2. Made my XY GT look like a Gemini in the power stakes.

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #29 on: May 29, 2009, 09:52:58 am »
thanks SOC123_au

so what have you done and what did it set u back if u dont mind me asking?

 i guess u got a high comp engine as i would be doing the opposite for force fed motor.

i do want to  use alloy heads with rolla  cams but that allone will be around $1500.

hence im thicnking of using the tickford 302 from the au3 that allready has that. u pay bit more but still cheaper than adding the aftermarket stuff.

well thats what i think but could be wrong maybe alloy heads are cheaper i just dont know where.

Offline soc123_au

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« Reply #30 on: May 29, 2009, 10:33:54 am »
The engine & injection is over $20000.00, I havent added it all up exactly as I would probably cry. It is the EL block, scat stroker crank, H beam rods, kieth black pistons, AFR 185 heads, 440 injectors, dso intake, 4 x 90mm duel throttle bodys, microtec lt 10, roller cam (cant remember the grind off the top of my head), arp bolts etc. should make about 500hp hopefully. just sorting out the a/c & cooler pipes & wiring & we can kick it in the guts.

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #31 on: May 29, 2009, 11:00:15 am »
67 tt, you just need to buy the right heads, most come with different chamber sizes to suit the big capacity strokers over 400 cube, put these on a 302, and you'll drop the comp fro the turbos Have a look on the AFR web site. For example My modfied closed chamber ford heads a 55cc, but you can get llike 63cc chambers in after market heads. plus you can get dished or flat top pistons, so it won't har to get the correct comp.

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #32 on: May 29, 2009, 12:44:18 pm »
thanks SC wow 20K not sure i want to spend that much money on a rebuild.

shaunp thats sounds good. dont like overcomplicating things if not needed.

so what is a good combo or best motor to use for supercharging or turbo applcations. internaly and heads? 302 351 W or C.


Offline shaunp

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« Reply #33 on: May 29, 2009, 01:04:46 pm »
Windsor stuff is way easier to buy new, you can run Clevo heads on a windsor like a Boss 302 but you need a special inlet manifold, called a street Boss. There a plenty of aftermarket cranks, rods etc, + heads for Windsors. Stroker kits, with 4340 cranks, H beam rods etc, just depends how strong you want it, and how many cubes. Look to Eagle, or Scat for a rotating assembly, heads AFR are pretty nice. Cheaper heads that need some hand porting etc like World Castings Senoirs or Juniors, in iron are pretty cheap and good an strong. The list is pretty endless for aftermarket stuff for Windsors, as they made millons of them in the US, A 351W will fit in your car ok, but a 302, (stroke it to 331 or 347 for more cubes if needed) will give you more room to plumb up the hair driers. If want an elcheapo you can bang some 351 heads on an early 302/389 and that will drop the compresson some, even more with dished pistons. The roller cam bit is not such an issue, really even in an early block, it's the cam and lifters with are expensive, regarless of the block really. The thing to look for really is a block that hasn't had the crap bored out of it. They don't like getting bored past 030 if you are making power. The later engines have a 50oz external balance as well, so consider this when buying a flywheel and balancer, you have to get the correct weight.

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #34 on: May 29, 2009, 02:43:19 pm »
i would like a large capacity engine like the 351. (so i just can tell my mate 350 chev freak that mines bigger LOL) but still intend on sticking hair driers on it and efi again to stick it up to him.

all interesting stuff and confusing at the moment.

may have to check the falcon forums or xr8 to see what they doing with the newer stuff and superchargers. there is quite a few around with blowers here.

i know the 350 gen3 can take bit of boost with stock internals and quite a bit more with few small changes.

i just hope fords got an similar engine.

efi and managment is the easy part for me. its the bottom end and heads im not sure which one can take most of the punishment without going to expensive rebuild.


Offline shaunp

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« Reply #35 on: May 29, 2009, 04:58:28 pm »
67TT you can buy strong bottom ends off the shelf, it's not magic on these things. H beam rods, 4340 crank, forged slugs, main girdle. Done. Have a look at the Eagle rods or Scat cranks web site. You can buy the whole asseembly balanced if you want out of the box. There is a guy Called Pro stoke down south who has kits or you can buy them at lots of places like Rocket. Pro stoke have a web site just for a look at what you can get. They made millions of these engine the bits aren't expensive.

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #36 on: May 29, 2009, 05:10:38 pm »
cheers shaunp been great help with my silly neuby questions ill give this guys a call. try sus out some numbers and cost associated.

also have orginised a bit of a chit chat with my mates boss.

bit of a ford freak: has xy GTHO that he had from the 70 only 60k miles on it and a race version of same car.
hes redoing his (just found out)  69 BOSS429 mustang.

may visit few wreck yard to see what the new 5.4L fetch and if i can find a AU3 XR8 302 see what they asking for that too.

possibly look at dameged car auctions and get a wrecked fpv or something like that.

few options i guess. im trying to find best one suited for me.

 if too hard ill just detail and efi the 302 that came with the car. LOL should be good for sunday drives. :f



 

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #37 on: May 29, 2009, 06:01:59 pm »
If you want a modular engine out of a late falcon, don't bother with one here get a blown one complete with manual box out of a late Mustang from the states. I got some bit off a guy here in Brisbane who was fitting one in a 67 he got a blown, one from a GT500 with the manual box harness ecu etc for like $5k landed from a wreck. You need to fit an RRS strut front end and use the RRS tower notching kit to make it fitt.

Offline moe

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« Reply #38 on: May 29, 2009, 06:37:35 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by shaunp
If you want a modular engine out of a late falcon, don't bother with one here get a blown one complete with manual box out of a late Mustang from the states. I got some bit off a guy here in Brisbane who was fitting one in a 67 he got a blown, one from a GT500 with the manual box harness ecu etc for like $5k landed from a wreck. You need to fit an RRS strut front end and use the RRS tower notching kit to make it fitt.

Seen that done to a falcon on another forum - car was an absolute weapon, not allowed back to the drags until a cage goes in!  Worked out being a lot cheaper than modifying the falcon motor to the same level.

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #39 on: May 29, 2009, 06:46:52 pm »
cool thats sound something ill be realy interested in.

my cousin is in Brisi may get him to sus it out for me.  
hes known in the performance scene and knows few importers including the us stuff. but i better not mention what engine he was using in his cars ;) but she pumped out 1000hp and did 9.27 down the 1/4.

also have to look into more detail about this RRS front end and notching kit to see what i need to do physically.

so whats the improter names that gets these engines in? lol so excited now hihihihihiih :p

Offline moe

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« Reply #40 on: May 29, 2009, 07:15:21 pm »
I'll U2U the link to the build on the other forum.

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #41 on: May 29, 2009, 07:32:08 pm »
Thing is the engine is cheap but you have to buy $8k of RRS front and to make it fit.

Offline moe

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« Reply #42 on: May 29, 2009, 07:36:57 pm »
shaunp,  any idea if the guy doing the conversion in the mustang had many issues with the ecu??

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #43 on: May 29, 2009, 07:59:17 pm »
thanks MO looking forward to it.

Shaun 8k for rrs stuff. does bite into it but still looks interesting overall.


Offline moe

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« Reply #44 on: May 29, 2009, 08:08:19 pm »
Be interesting to see the cost comparison for some of the US notching components and strut conversion with the RRS stuff.

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #45 on: May 29, 2009, 08:39:51 pm »
Mo, he said he had something deleted from it so it didn't look for the other ECUs in the car etc. It was the most stuffed 67FB I have seen, super rusty and flogged, made Bas's one look good. He was selling all the runing gear etc on e-bay I won a couple of things. He had made a full chassis, was tubing it etc, but the car was stuffed really. He was Kiwi panel beater, he was doing a good job  but it was just a shell or what was left of it, I had a look at all the bits he was putting in it etc. The work was good, it will turn out ok, he was doing in a car port, beside his house, I think he did mobile panel beating, rust repairs etc.

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #46 on: May 29, 2009, 08:45:01 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by 67TTCoupe
thanks MO looking forward to it.

Shaun 8k for rrs stuff. does bite into it but still looks interesting overall.

 

Yeah if you add it to the price of the Modular engine your getting up around $13-14k. You can buy a lot of new Windsor bits for that, and just drop it in, and you havent cut the car up, oh and you can still buy a ball joint a Super cheap on sunday avro, after you hit a gutter and pop one, or buy another control arm at the wreckers for $20. Go the windsor the V8 Supers do ok with them,albeit an expensive one.

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #47 on: June 15, 2009, 03:38:23 pm »
guys since i still havent got the car at my place, but constantly thinking about things what and how to do things.  

expecialy after work hours watching tv my head is still thinking about the mustang.i guess early planing doesnt hurt. saves me time once the car arrives.

what are the dimensions ie distance between strut towers on the 67.

im interested in the gap between the towers.  i guess top, Mid (if different thant top) and where it starts curving toward the bottom.

just trying to work some things out regarding engines.

cheers

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #48 on: June 15, 2009, 04:38:48 pm »
720, 640 about 530 where it start to curve to the mounts, these are rough numbers

Offline 67TTCoupe

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« Reply #49 on: June 15, 2009, 05:17:41 pm »
cheers shaunp