Author Topic: Not ANTOHER brake thread (Read 5372 times)

HEVEN67 · « **on:** May 16, 2009, 08:25:57 pm »

A bit of reworking but they are a treat and the handbrake is excellent.
You just gotta get the clearance on the wheel bearing, if you know what I mean, I machined up some spacer rings.

HEVEN67 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 16, 2009, 09:06:14 pm »

Thats right, most of the ford stuff from around the ere will fit.

moe · « **Reply #2 on:** May 16, 2009, 10:07:16 pm »

Was the XF a ute, sedan or wagon?

I take it you are planning on running the XF stub axles???

moe · « **Reply #3 on:** May 17, 2009, 01:01:47 am »

XF booster will be a little large for the engine bay - not sure if you want to modify engine bay to fit it; I'm running the XB booster, which is a little smaller.

Chuck up a couple of ads locally wrecking the xf, and try and get as much $$ back on the sheet metal and bits and pieces ASAP - that'll get the mrs off your back about the cost, especially if you end up in front.:a

moe · « **Reply #4 on:** May 17, 2009, 06:24:43 pm »

call it a modern art feature for the front yard - didn't work for me but by the time the 4th wreck came home, she learned to put up with it.

HEVEN67 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 17, 2009, 06:42:15 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by mo
Was the XF a ute, sedan or wagon?

I take it you are planning on running the XF stub axles???

It was a sedan, they gotta be the Alloy ones, someone told me they sell em new. the backing plates are alloy too, I opted for these cause the XD calipers are a pain cause the hand brake goes out or adjustment easily and these are cast iron, but the brake line is a panel van or a ute.

FMACHI · « **Reply #6 on:** May 18, 2009, 10:05:33 am »

Suspect, I'm doing the XF rear discs to my '69. I've been told that the main issue with using a Aus RHD booster 'might' be the pedal/lever length. Its not a minor issue, but it might work out easier to use an early model Mustang booster. You've got the bits, so you might aswell play around with it first.
My mechanic has done it in the past and said the other issue, is fitting the larger booster on the firewall, but it can be done.

Let us know how you go, as I still need to grab a booster, and have an XF/NA booster available.
David

FMACHI · « **Reply #7 on:** May 18, 2009, 10:06:33 am »

PS, did you guys opt for the solid discs, or the vented set up.
David

shaunp · « **Reply #8 on:** May 18, 2009, 10:21:10 am »

Quote

Originally posted by FMACHI
Suspect, I'm doing the XF rear discs to my '69. I've been told that the main issue with using a Aus RHD booster 'might' be the pedal/lever length. Its not a minor issue, but it might work out easier to use an early model Mustang booster. You've got the bits, so you might aswell play around with it first.
My mechanic has done it in the past and said the other issue, is fitting the larger booster on the firewall, but it can be done.

Let us know how you go, as I still need to grab a booster, and have an XF/NA booster available.
David

The push rod on the booster is too long where it meets the pedal, you either make a spacer and pack it off the firewall or cut and shorten the rod, or both, it's no big deal. You need to make sure your bais front to rear is correct so you don't spin it around when you hit the brakes, you want the front to lock first. I'd use a matching booster and master. Personally I'd run an XB booster and master, and fit a remote adjustable porportioning valve so you can get it right. Mustangs don't weight the same as Falcons, it you use a late model Falcon master it has built in proporting valve which may or may not be correct. You can buy XB units brand new, buy a Disc Disc unit.

The main problem with Falcon rear calipers is becuse the hand brake stuff is inside in the fuild is rusts up and then they don't self adjust, so rebuild them and run fresh fuild all the time, or silicon.

moe · « **Reply #9 on:** May 18, 2009, 11:22:03 am »

There are brackets available to adapt the standard mustang firewall and mate it to a falcon booster without drilling holes. they also space them out.
Have a look at page 2:
http://www.hoppers.com.au/brake%20kits/masters%20boosters%20brackets%20and%20pumps.pdf

moe · « **Reply #10 on:** May 18, 2009, 05:06:56 pm »

Also, don't forget when upgrading to discs to change the brake light switch to suit disc brakes.

MustangMedic · « **Reply #11 on:** May 18, 2009, 07:13:34 pm »

Hey MO!!
do you need to do this mod if you fit only fronts.
Ash

moe · « **Reply #12 on:** May 18, 2009, 07:39:39 pm »

yep - sure do Ash. have a look now and see what point your brake lights come on with pedal pressure.

There is 3 types of switches(source scott drake catalog) ;
Manual brakes
Power Disc
Power Drum

My car had the manual brake switch(car has booster and disc brakes) and the brake lights came on very late. I changed my switch to the power disc and it solved my problems, lights go on as soon as I apply pressure to the pedal.

MustangMedic · « **Reply #13 on:** May 18, 2009, 08:02:38 pm »

MO
Just had dinner will now sus it out, do Capital Classics carry the new switch.
Ash

moe · « **Reply #14 on:** May 18, 2009, 08:03:27 pm »

They supplied my new correct power disc switch.
Was there one in your kit?

MustangMedic · « **Reply #15 on:** May 18, 2009, 08:22:48 pm »

MO.
I didn't get one in my kit.
Ash

moe · « **Reply #16 on:** May 18, 2009, 08:33:05 pm »

I'm going out there on Saturday - want me to pick up one for you??

MustangMedic · « **Reply #17 on:** May 18, 2009, 09:37:42 pm »

MO
I'll see you there.
Ash

shaunp · « **Reply #18 on:** May 28, 2009, 02:50:03 pm »

The ball joint tapers are the same, the only differance in joints is the number of rivets/bolts in the top one this occurs on Falcons as well from model to model. Lowers don't wear much tops do, You'll need falcon outer tie rods, tapers are larger, Don't worry it will wheel align ok. Are you putting new springs in it?

shaunp · « **Reply #19 on:** May 28, 2009, 03:14:16 pm »

I don't like poly bushes, in some applications the fail quicker than factory, and be cause the are stiff the damage other stuff, On the sway bar they are ok. Lower inners are same as XY, top inners are now XF off course. I always shorten the caster bar rubber spacer tubes a bit to clamp them a bit harder, stops the wheels moving so much in drive an braking. Make sure you fit new camber bolts, the flats wear on them and it allows the camber to shift

shaunp · « **Reply #20 on:** May 28, 2009, 03:17:35 pm »

No you need XF top joints. Do you a picture of the shims you are talking about? I'm guessing they have a tapered cone to make the mustang ones fit the XF hole. You can't do this in QLD, not sure about WA.

shaunp · « **Reply #21 on:** May 28, 2009, 03:18:54 pm »

And you can buy Grease able spring perches if you want, From Nolethane I reckon this is a good idea.

shaunp · « **Reply #22 on:** May 28, 2009, 04:11:00 pm »

Camber bolts are the lower arm pivots they are ecentric so you can adjust the camber, XY should fit, sway bushes are generic just measure the bar, caster bushes just falcon. Wait till you get the rack and see what you need there. Those racks look ok to me, I like the inner tie rod pivot. Looks better than the TCP one.

shaunp · « **Reply #23 on:** June 11, 2009, 07:42:39 am »

Beed blast them if you want a mat look.

victorypark · « **Reply #24 on:** June 13, 2009, 12:13:39 am »

Hey suspect what booster and m/c are u using???

We sell Wilwood brake components.....

Cheers.

Not ANTOHER brake thread

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Author Topic: Not ANTOHER brake thread (Read 5372 times)