Author Topic: 68 mustang coupe resto mod (Read 26233 times)

R_Beckhaus · « **Reply #25 on:** June 10, 2009, 04:57:17 pm »

My '68 is currently being repaired from this fault and a cracked right rail as well. I strongly recommend you heed Shaunp's advice as the repair is decidedly costly.
Cheers, Ron B

dunwood · « **Reply #26 on:** June 10, 2009, 05:42:26 pm »

OK, i did some NDT to both sides of the turrests on both sides of the car with FLAWFINDER SYSTEM http://www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/metalworking/flawfinder/
No cracks were found in the area of concern.

The only crack was on the export Brace which i'll need to fix.

R_Beckhaus · « **Reply #27 on:** June 10, 2009, 05:48:32 pm »

Before you weld it, make certain you've found BOTH ends of the crack and drill a 1/4 hole at each end of the crack, then weld up the crack and holes., otherwise the crack will keep on spreading. This is what happened to me!!!

shaunp · « **Reply #28 on:** June 10, 2009, 07:20:35 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by dunwood
OK, i did some NDT to both sides of the turrests on both sides of the car with FLAWFINDER SYSTEM http://www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/metalworking/flawfinder/
No cracks were found in the area of concern.

The only crack was on the export Brace which i'll need to fix.

OK cool,so just push the strenghtening plates back where they should be , and weld them so they don't move again.

dunwood · « **Reply #29 on:** June 25, 2009, 05:53:26 pm »

The other day, i visited a mate of mine who is doing up a Shelby Cobra GT500 and noticed that he had removed the front end out of it. I asked him what he was doing with the old front end which he just put in a month or so. He's decided to change the front end to a Total Control Products front end. and he said "You can have the old front end" and now i have front discs for my car now.

as you can see, it came with a pile of other stuff. Half i can't use (Lower control arms have stuffed bushes, Spring saddles have stuff bushes and the springs have been cut with a hacksaw). I also need to change the tie rod ends on my mustang to fit onto the spindle as mine are slightly smaller.

dunwood · « **Reply #30 on:** June 25, 2009, 09:16:27 pm »

Yeah, apparently they were knock off's made in china. But the rest of it is american made so i should be right.

dunwood · « **Reply #31 on:** June 28, 2009, 09:02:04 pm »

BTW, does anybody know where to get rocker covers for the Aust 302 EFI Motor?

moe · « **Reply #32 on:** June 29, 2009, 08:03:48 am »

I use standard mustang rocker covers on my Aust 302 EFI heads, on my third set (currently running the Hi-po chrome style).
Are you after anything in particular?

dunwood · « **Reply #33 on:** June 29, 2009, 03:08:58 pm »

something like this

some poeple say they will fit, some say they wont and some say they will only fit as long as you don't use roller rockers so i'm a bit confused as to who is right as i'd like to fit roller rockers to the motor for the mustang

dunwood · « **Reply #34 on:** August 28, 2009, 01:42:18 pm »

Finally a day that hasn't been wet or cold. I've 90% done removing all the interior of the car. Today the heater box, plenum chamber and the ducts were taken out of the car. the ducts are stuffed as well as the plenum chamber (it's only made out of cardboard). The heater core looks ok, but i'm am going to have it pressure tested to make sure there is no leaks as there was a fair bit of water in the heater box. i'll be getting into it more as it's warms up here.

dunwood · « **Reply #35 on:** October 16, 2009, 02:25:53 pm »

the diff was taken out today

it's a 8" 2.79:1 diff

while the diff is out, dad wants to paint it light blue for some strange reason.

Foresight · « **Reply #36 on:** October 16, 2009, 02:42:01 pm »

light blue? like ford engine blue?

dunwood · « **Reply #37 on:** October 16, 2009, 05:12:16 pm »

lighter than the ford engine blue. Like a powder coated blue

IGALOP · « **Reply #38 on:** October 16, 2009, 08:57:34 pm »

But it might get dirty!:w:w

dunwood · « **Reply #39 on:** October 22, 2009, 01:45:27 pm »

It will get better than the rusty brown it is now. Well today i finally sorted out the rear brakes. I picked them up from Blue Oval Garage. t will be awhile before they go on the car, but i couln't pass up a discount on the kit.

dunwood · « **Reply #40 on:** January 15, 2010, 02:30:56 pm »

Ok it looks like i've been duped. Those stub axles and disc setup that i got (and assured that they were the right one's for my car) are in fact for a 68 Ford Torino or Fairlane. :_ So now i've got to get my hands on some tie rod ends for a 68 Torino or Fairlane. Where can i buy a set of them in australia or will need to import some from america?:

non member · « **Reply #41 on:** January 15, 2010, 02:52:04 pm »

68 Torino stub (spindles) are the same as 68 Mustang. Part # C8OZ3105A (right) C8OZ31O6A (left).
Usage 68-9 Torino, 68-9 Montego, 68-9 Mustang (except Boss302), 68-9 Falcon (US & maybe Australian).

Tie rods from an XW Falcon or later will fit.

The lower arms in the picture you posted on 25/6/09 are 67 lowers.

dunwood · « **Reply #42 on:** January 15, 2010, 03:03:07 pm »

Thanks ozbits. just as i posted that, i checked a ford torino parts catalog and it quotes the same part number for the tie rods as the mustang one. so i checked it and it in fact fits after all. so disaster avoided.

now i just haft to get rid of a set of mustang 1970 tie rod ends which i was told by the guy that i brought the front end from that i needed them to use on it as the ones on my car (1968 tie rods) won't fit. pisses me off being told wrong info.

BTW, is there a length distance between the 67 Lower control arms to the 68 Lower Control arms?

non member · « **Reply #43 on:** January 15, 2010, 03:13:02 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by dunwood
Thanks ozbits. just as i posted that, i checked a ford torino parts catalog and it quotes the same part number for the tie rods as the mustang one. so i checked it and it in fact fits after all. so disaster avoided.

now i just haft to get rid of a set of mustang 1970 tie rod ends which i was told by the guy that i brought the front end from that i needed them to use on it as the ones on my car (1968 tie rods) won't fit. pisses me off being told wrong info.

BTW, is there a length distance between the 67 Lower control arms to the 68 Lower Control arms?

67 & 68 lower arms are the same length. I picked the arms in your pic by the 4 holes. 67 uses a straight caster bar, 68 on uses a curved end caster bar. If you had lower arms when you pulled the car down, then they will fit the 70 bars. If not just get a set of XW (or later) lower arms.

dunwood · « **Reply #44 on:** May 27, 2010, 08:54:12 pm »

Not much done for a few months due to starting a new job.

anyway here is the diff being painted blue by dad while i was at work.

dunwood · « **Reply #45 on:** May 28, 2010, 07:11:22 pm »

it has one on it already on the other side of the diff. the arrow shows where it is

muzz67 · « **Reply #46 on:** May 28, 2010, 07:14:14 pm »

True,

But a DRAIN plug in the bottom makes life so easy when you have pulled out like that.

Just an option

muzz67 · « **Reply #47 on:** May 29, 2010, 10:39:52 am »

Yep that's a filler plug alright, but without pulling out the diff centre how do you drain it to replace the oil????

non member · « **Reply #48 on:** May 29, 2010, 11:18:09 am »

& make the drain plug in the base a magnetic one...

dunwood · « **Reply #49 on:** May 30, 2010, 08:21:19 pm »

this is the car that will give it's motor and gearbox to my mustang.

i got it from a council auction about a year ago.

68 mustang coupe resto mod

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Author Topic: 68 mustang coupe resto mod (Read 26233 times)

R_Beckhaus

R_Beckhaus