Author Topic: 66 FB Fairstang project (Read 57689 times)

scott66stang · « **Reply #25 on:** May 03, 2009, 01:49:01 pm »

Any info on the conversion would be good , but the problem i have is that when i got the car the wipers were not mounted , just hanging under the dash and another full set in the boot. Both sets are not fit in the 66 hole in the cowl and have a keyway type shaft , also have a threaded bit for a nut and proberly a chrome fitting which are missing for on top of the cowl under the wipers . I have XL - XY wiper set ups but none are the same . Also one of the rebated bits on the top of the cowl is thrashed out , the XY is similar so i can use that , but the XM whole set up is better and stronger and i would like to use it but it would require me to use different sections top and bottom of cowl. This is my dilemma , whether to keep it original or not considering all the other mods i have done.

shaunp · « **Reply #26 on:** May 03, 2009, 06:53:50 pm »

Personally I'd get some originals its really easy with the stock parts. I just cut the eye pieces out of the cowl using a hole saw, with a socket as a spigot rater than a drill so it fitts in the shaft hole while you cut. From memory I used a 56mm to cut them out and 53mm to cut the new holes so they are a pretty neat fit to weld in. You have to hammer the under side of the cowl up so the shafts a long enough. I droped some bolts in from the top and welded them in prior to fitting the eye piece back in the cowl. The linkages etc just reverse. To make them park correctly at the botom of the screen remove the crank from the motor and turn it 180* on the flatts. Mount the motor on the opersite side in the same spot and your done. If you want to use a VN comodore heater A/C unit so you can have intergated air. It's a bit harder. But you can do it with a cable wiper set up from a english car, Austin 1800, XJ Jag etc, this way you can mount the wiper motor over on the left side up high. The stock wipe arms need the tip bent back the other way so they sit flat at the base of the screen. You can just grip them in the vice and bend them the other way. There are some pictures of mine on here some where. It a 67 but they are pretty similar.
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/viewthread.php?tid=4261

scott66stang · « **Reply #27 on:** May 03, 2009, 07:15:06 pm »

Thanks Shaun your information has been helpful , i just realised that i got your pics already on my computer from about 4mths ago. i have already cut out the Left side and drilled the position for the far RHS which is where i have stopped. i actually cut out the section under the cowl aswell which was a waste of time as the wiper plate nuts had pulled out anyway . I like the studs you have put in instead.

shaunp · « **Reply #28 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:00:09 pm »

Yeah you don't cut the under side cause you don't want to too much welding up in there. Just hammer the shape in, takes a little while. The right hand one kind of already has the shape doen't need to be hit up as much. Make up a couple of plates to screw in the old postions on the underside, with a bit of sealer to make sure they don't leak. The studs from the top will never come out. I'm keen on those EB rear brakes!

shaunp · « **Reply #29 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:13:01 pm »

Not sure what you are doing for a pedal box, But I used a XB manual box cut off at the point where the brake light switch is, I then welded the snout of the mustang one to it. This way it fitts the booster perfectly and the pedals end up in the correct spot, plus it mounts to the dash in the stock spot. I can post a picture if you want. An XF box is the same if you want an auto set up, but I wanted a hydraulic clutch set up hense the XB pedl set up. My firewall is made to suit this set up also, for the falcon pedals, booster and clutch master.

scott66stang · « **Reply #30 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:21:37 pm »

LOL! thats just it , there was only 2 of the 6 thread nuts left welded in , no worries the welding wasnt too hard and under the cowl has had a good clean and treatment while doing the rust repairs , and will get alot of paint and rust proofing in there.

Rear brakes, i was surprised how easy it was , i did originally drill 4 new holes at 90 degrees but the caliper was too close to the spring , may not be the same on later models. But then to turn it on a angle and 2 of the holes lined up , how easy is that.
Just need to sought out a shim , shouldnt be a prob . On the EB the flange welded on the diff housing sits back 5mm on the outer axle housing and the bracket slides over . So that means the mustang bearing has a larger diameter than the EB axle outer housing. LOL! .
It certainly worked well on a test drive , but in the end may need a adjustable proportioning valve being a lighter car.

ChilliChadd · « **Reply #31 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:26:18 pm »

you sort yours then I'll line mine up for round 2. :+

scott66stang · « **Reply #32 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:36:18 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by ChilliChadd
you sort yours then I'll line mine up for round 2. :+

Its all sorted mate! Dont worry about a little axle float . What are you waiting for???
:+
You just hurry up and get them new wheels so i can try them on :*
EDIT: Oh thats right you need the new bigger wheels so you can fit these discs.

shaunp · « **Reply #33 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:40:28 pm »

Yeah you need the front brakes to lock first, so you don't turn it around under brakes. You can get one that just goes in line with the rears, to limit pressure. I was looking at some yesterday at the Brisbane hot show. A guy a Thornlands called Get Boosted has them. He has a web site have a look for it. I would have thought the caliper braket was thicker than the drum backing plate?
http://www.getboosted.com.au/Catalogue.asp

ChilliChadd · « **Reply #34 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:46:50 pm »

yeh yeh I'm working on it. I like to get my way, so a little sweet talking the missus is in order. And the sooner I sell that bike the better;2

scott66stang · « **Reply #35 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:55:47 pm »

it is thicker , 5-8mm thick cant remember atm . I tried to explain it , bit hard , ill take a pic of the EB diff ends tomorrow. Imagine unwelding the flange at the end of the mustang axle housing and rewelding it 5mm back leaving a stepped end . And then making the hole in the centre of the bracket even bigger to enable it to slide over the outer diameter of the axle housing onto this step to be bolted up. Ideally you could do this rather than have a shim but a bit more stuffing around.

shaunp · « **Reply #36 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:58:00 pm »

Scott do you need 15in wheels to clear the rear brakes. I've got a set of 14x7 Hustlers (like original AM torque thrust) I'am going to run. I just had a look at my rear axle I've got one side apart to make some sway bar mounts off the spring plate. So the shim you are talking about goes inside the EB caliper bracket bearing hole to stop axle floating to the retaining plate?

scott66stang · « **Reply #37 on:** May 03, 2009, 10:08:41 pm »

Well yes and no , i have a NA fairlane with exact same brakes sitting out the back with 14 steel rims on std they also have 14 alloy mags std. However the wheels mine came with ( check 1st pic on trailer) which i am told are of a cougar , bind on the calipers and wont infact bolt all the way on. I had a set of aluminium mags laying near by that i tried on and they where very very close and i was unsure if they touched with caliper movement. So im unsure of what fits , which is why i have the NC failane 15" rims on atm till i get 16" speedy malibu's.

And yes thats where the shim goes

shaunp · « **Reply #38 on:** May 03, 2009, 10:18:03 pm »

Well the wheels I have will go on an XD etc so maybe they will work. If you bearings are ok you could just cut the shim in 1/2 won't matter it's just a distance piece once you do up the nuts on the retainer it's going no where.

scott66stang · « **Reply #39 on:** May 03, 2009, 10:23:43 pm »

Yep! realise that , but im going to replace them as part of my overall mechanical reliability plan. :w
i have seen 1/2 moon shims on a brake coversion somewhere , castlemaine or someone similar.
Last resort ill just cut down my old bearings outer race using my mates lathe, to make the shim.

I just measured the bracket thickness at that point , it is 6.5mm so take away approx 1.5mm thickness of the drum brake backing plate and you have 5mm.

shaunp · « **Reply #40 on:** May 04, 2009, 08:39:48 am »

Do you reckon you need to pack the disc as well on the axle flange or is there enough travel in the caliper slide. Because If I under stand how it mounts on the falcon it is set back from end of the axle. May pay to check it with the pads out to see if you extremes of new pads, worn pads etc

scott66stang · « **Reply #41 on:** May 04, 2009, 06:23:22 pm »

;y Shaun you just jogged my memory , thats the problem with posting this too early , as i mocked this up back in November almost 6mths ago.
Yes there was a problem with the caliper travel and i really need to pull it apart again to check. But i think it was not enough travel with new pads and that the shim wasnt needed on the bearing , but infact the caliper bracket had to be mounted in between the axle flange and the axle ends instead to move the bracket towards the disc and i may have to shim it another 5mm. Thats why i was going to do the bearings , because the order of fitting onto the axle was bracket first , then flange , then bearing and retainer. There was another possibility and that was to use only 3 mounting nuts on the flange and cut out a section of the bracket where the ABS sensor was or between the 2 lower studs to enable the bracket to be fitted over the axle without removing the bearings. Even though i think it would be ok , i would prefer to keep the bracket full. Any way i need to confirm all this at a later date when i get back to it , or i might get eager this week and have another look. I suppose every one who wants to do the conversion will be on my back now to get it done. :+

shaunp · « **Reply #42 on:** May 06, 2009, 03:29:43 pm »

Think I'll just cut them it won't go anywhere, I'll may talk to John Green at Probe Eng first and see what he says.

shaunp · « **Reply #43 on:** May 06, 2009, 03:58:52 pm »

It's a pretty strong looking bracket, and most of the force is trying to turn it, so its the fiction between it and the housing as well as the bolts that take the load, some puching back against the axle flange from the hydrualic force to I guess. I think it would be fine. The ones Hopper stoppers sell is mounted to a small bracket welded to the tube, this looks way better.

scott66stang · « **Reply #44 on:** May 06, 2009, 05:21:25 pm »

I agree on all your points , so i say go for it ;}

eri67 · « **Reply #45 on:** May 10, 2009, 02:13:13 pm »

Thanks for sharing, This forum is great, apart from a few small hiccups, everyone is generous with their knowledge and little tricks, thanks for letting us learn with you guys:(

scott66stang · « **Reply #46 on:** May 10, 2009, 02:23:36 pm »

Ditto!! I learn alot from the forum and appreciate others input. Apart from previously being a Toyota mechanic mid 80s -late 90s , most of my limited knowledge is the old falcons XL -XY .
Even though admired for near 25 years , Mustangs are all new to me as they were finacially out of reach untill now.

shaunp · « **Reply #47 on:** May 11, 2009, 09:12:50 am »

Scott I'm not sure but to me I think the cut leaving the 3 bolt holes may be better, as you have more meat around the caliper slide, away I guess it's no trouble to puch the bearings off, you'll only ever do it once, maybe it's best to just leave it. I got given an EL (I think) wagon yeaterday, so looks like I've got a set for free to play with.

scott66stang · « **Reply #48 on:** May 11, 2009, 10:47:37 am »

Yeah thats why im keeping it complete , as you said , only have to do it once and a good oportunity for preventative maintanence by replacing the bearings. Im also going to add that Diff housing flange i cut off for a little extra strength , there is plenty of stud left to include this. Not really neccessary but i like overkill.

ChilliChadd · « **Reply #49 on:** May 28, 2009, 10:53:04 pm »

Thanks for ya help tonight Scott. :(Now back in the shed and get that Stang moving;}

66 FB Fairstang project

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Author Topic: 66 FB Fairstang project (Read 57689 times)