67 Disc Brake Conversion

[insideout]

Here is where I am at, XW stubs, XW rotors, VE commodore Calipers, Sacramento Mustang dual Booster.
Can anyone comment on this set up?? Also, can I use the 67s outer drag links or will they stuff up the geometry or what should I use to replace them. HELP

[shaunp]

On a 67 you can just use a full falcon set up, up to XF, if you want small hub bearings to fit styled wheels you need pre xb disc's hubs. The tie rod hole in the steering arm on falcons are large so you need Falcon tie rod ends. Best calipers are XF alloys. The geometery is fine on a 67, but this does widen the track a touch, no big deal. Make sure the falcon stubs come from a sedan not a wagon. You can use a Falcon booster and XB master cyl, as it has a built in proportioning valve. The XF calipers will fit xy on stubs.

[shaunp]

XY to early XB are the same, small bearing hubs. Also good to use XF top control arms, stronger and have rubber bushes rather than the greaseable ones in the 67. Just go to the wrecker and buy an XF front end but with out the lower arms, and caster bars. On a V8 car you can use Kings XF 6cyl springs or Cortina springs. the only down side is that the large bearing hubs won't fit in early wheels, but if you want you can run XY rotors, with small bearings, get the rotors with built in hubs if you want to do that. Just remember that Wagon stubs are different, the steering arms are different to suit the longer wheel base. You can use a falcon set up on pre 67 cars as well but you need to bend the steering arms to fix the bump steer, you can have them magna flux crack tested, this is acceptable to DOT. In QLD you really can't run the Mustang of Melbourne type set up.

[2233]

If this helps.

I am running XF top and bottom arms, XC stubs,calipers. As for the rod ends I have no idea, they were put on when the conversion was done.

I am also running XF rear calipers and an XB master cyl.

If I were your I would seriously put XF arms,stubs,calipers on it.:( Whilst you are at it get the "shelby drop" done.

[MustangNut]

Hey 2233, "I am also running XF rear calipers". Is this on a ford diff or do you have a borg warner fitted?  

[2233]

9 inch :(

[DV8]

Shaunp wrote:

You can use a falcon set up on pre 67 cars as well but you need to bend the steering arms to fix the bump steer, you can have them magna flux crack tested, this is acceptable to DOT. In QLD you really can't run the Mustang of Melbourne type set up.

I know we're talking about a '67 here, but on the earlier cars the XF upper control doesn't fit. The holes centres in the shock tower are narrower on the early Mustangs. I've used XM-XP UCA's.

Cheers,
Mike.

[shaunp]

Originally posted by DV8
Shaunp wrote:

You can use a falcon set up on pre 67 cars as well but you need to bend the steering arms to fix the bump steer, you can have them magna flux crack tested, this is acceptable to DOT. In QLD you really can't run the Mustang of Melbourne type set up.

I know we're talking about a '67 here, but on the earlier cars the XF upper control doesn't fit. The holes centres in the shock tower are narrower on the early Mustangs. I've used XM-XP UCA's.

Cheers,
Mike.

That's correct, but you can use the brakes if you bend the steering arms to fix the bump steer.

[insideout]

WoW ! Geez I guess no one has an opinion on the bits I have. XW stubs ans rotors, VE commodore Calipers, and an imported dual booster. I sourced these after reading old stuff in this forum MOM claims that XW stubs are the way to go but my concern is shich tie rods to use??
HELP again.
I have a 67 Convertible that I imported from CA and it arrived in March. Now NSW Registered 67HEVN. Its a power everything C Code but no discs so need to stomp with my tired od legs to bring the machine to a stop.Did the Hunter out of Wollongong in May and it went, as the yanks say, "good"  

[shaunp]

Falcon tie rods , so the taper is correct.

[shaunp]

Originally posted by T-CODE KID
Mike.

That's correct, but you can use the brakes if you bend the steering arms to fix the bump steer. [/quote]

so its possible to bend,steering arms, etc?
by cold bearing press ,vice ?   [/quote]

Yeah but you don't need to on a 67 just the earlier cars. The arms/stubs are a forging not cast, they won't break, heat, bend them and then have them magna flux crack tested, this all you need to do. Welding of steering arms, drag links etc is differnet, they need to x-rayed on the weld to ensure no oxygen or any other inclusions, then they magna flux them as well. Done properly they will never ever fail. My drag link cost nearly $500, to weld and x-ray. But now I have one that is better in geometry than from from ford, Bump steer is corrected and is better then factory. And all the parts are generic Falcon, that you can buy anywhere, apart from the drag link of course and if you use XF top arms on 67 on cars you also get rid on the greasable upper-inner pivots plus you get a stronger arm, into the bargin

[DV8]

Shaun,
So the question is how far do you bend the arms? I've put XC spindles on (6 cyl car) with the thought of fitting R&P, hopefully to allow some positional adjustment to reduce bumpsteer (car hasn't been back on the road since). Would need to upgrade to V8 style drag link etc as a minimum anyway.
Cheers,
Mike.

[shaunp]

It would depend on the car, ie ride height, drag link etc. You can work it out with the car set a ride hieght on a flat floor. If you have no springs in it but the rest of the front end together, you need to find the centre point of the bump steer as the wheels go up and down, ie the point where it is neither toeing in or out as it moves up-down. This is the plane in which the tie rods must be at the end of the day. You can never fix bump steer on these cars not even with flash looking RRS racks, it is inherant in the design, you can just make sure it is in the middle not at one extreme or the other.

[eri67]

I have a mate with a old xy to ea graveyard, being cleaned out soon :- what should i collect for my LHD 67 as far as brakes and steering are concerned- cheers Josh

[eri67]

Originally posted by T-CODE KID
everything thats talked about above and thats applicable to RHD CONVERSIONS ,,STEER COLUMNS ,BOOSTERS,HEATERS,DISCS & STUBAXLES , WIPERE MECHS,  accelarator linkages etc  all will worth dough and help th rhd community .........wat city/suburbs...the yard?..........

northern Tassie, He is a hoarder and the council is getting nasty, already one yard down;]

[blackbox]

With the price of scrap hes going to make $300/car.
It will be his shout.:2
James.

[shaunp]

Originally posted by eri67
I have a mate with a old xy to ea graveyard, being cleaned out soon :- what should i collect for my LHD 67 as far as brakes and steering are concerned- cheers Josh

On a left hand drive 67, the brakes will be ok, small hub so you can run styled wheels etc, drag links can be modified for RHD, heater, inner coloum etc. Don't need the wipers the mustang ones just reverse. Best to use XB booster and pedal box on RHD car.

[eri67]

Originally posted by shaunp

Originally posted by eri67
I have a mate with a old xy to ea graveyard, being cleaned out soon :- what should i collect for my LHD 67 as far as brakes and steering are concerned- cheers Josh

On a left hand drive 67, the brakes will be ok, small hub so you can run styled wheels etc, drag links can be modified for RHD, heater, inner coloum etc. Don't need the wipers the mustang ones just reverse. Best to use XB booster and pedal box on RHD car.

Thanks for that shaun, yea it will be his shout , but its sad to see parts resources disappearing ;]   but at least I have my Stang:f

[Maz78]

Dumb question, but isn't it easier to get a kit from the states and do the conversion?? Has anyone installed a SSBC / Wilwood kit for the fronts? Doesn't  chopping and changing with the old Falcon parts screw up the geometry? BTW: What do these conversions cost installed?
(I am a noob so bear with me). hehe

[shaunp]

Not on a 67, Falcon brakes work fine, and they are cheap. XF brakes are plenty for a mustang, falcons are heavier, they work fine. It widens the track a bit, but the bump steer is ok. You can buy them for nothing, rotors cost $35 each pads cost $25,  and you can get a set of pads at Supa cheap on sunday arvo if you need them. Even if you buy slotted rotors etc they are going be cheap. I really can't see why you need to pay $700- $1300 for some brakes that look flash through the wheels.

[eri67]

Originally posted by jamessydney
With the price of scrap hes going to make $300/car.
It will be his shout.:2
James.

 
Maybe the scrap guys are complaining to the councils::::

oh yea love your car James, I am thinking about going down the matt paint route while I save up~~:(

[eri67]

Originally posted by shaunp
Not on a 67, Falcon brakes work fine, and they are cheap. XF brakes are plenty for a mustang, falcons are heavier, they work fine. It widens the track a bit, but the bump steer is ok. You can buy them for nothing, rotors cost $35 each pads cost $25,  and you can get a set of pads at Supa cheap on sunday arvo if you need them. Even if you buy slotted rotors etc they are going be cheap. I really can't see why you need to pay $700- $1300 for some brakes that look flash through the wheels.  

 Don,t mean to hijack the thread but would the falcon brakes work with my standard rims (new tires came with car):f

[Maz78]

Fair enough. Is it the same deal on 65-66 Mustangs? How much would you be looking at all up (Parts that is).
:(

Originally posted by shaunp
Not on a 67, Falcon brakes work fine, and they are cheap. XF brakes are plenty for a mustang, falcons are heavier, they work fine. It widens the track a bit, but the bump steer is ok. You can buy them for nothing, rotors cost $35 each pads cost $25,  and you can get a set of pads at Supa cheap on sunday arvo if you need them. Even if you buy slotted rotors etc they are going be cheap. I really can't see why you need to pay $700- $1300 for some brakes that look flash through the wheels.  

[shaunp]

Originally posted by eri67

Originally posted by shaunp
Not on a 67, Falcon brakes work fine, and they are cheap. XF brakes are plenty for a mustang, falcons are heavier, they work fine. It widens the track a bit, but the bump steer is ok. You can buy them for nothing, rotors cost $35 each pads cost $25,  and you can get a set of pads at Supa cheap on sunday arvo if you need them. Even if you buy slotted rotors etc they are going be cheap. I really can't see why you need to pay $700- $1300 for some brakes that look flash through the wheels.  

 Don,t mean to hijack the thread but would the falcon brakes work with my standard rims (new tires came with car):f

Factory wheels or styled wheels will have a small hole in the centre, so you need pre XB hubs/rotors, later falcons run larger bearings, You can use XF alloy calipers on any XY on stub. These are newer and lighter, so reduce the unsprung mass, and normally a set of seals will tidy them up.

As for the cost, depends what you want, TBS at Capalaba will do flat rotors for about, $35 each,  or slotted will be double that. Pads range from $25- $65 or there abouts depending on spec, new custom hoses $30 each, caliper seal kits $15 each, set of XF stubs complete with brakes around $60 at the wreckers, you may even buy a perfect set that you can bolt straight on with some new pads and hoses. These are rough prices. Thing is with a Falcon set up everything is generic, you can buy it anywhere, so the on going maintance of the car is easy and cheap. If you want them to look nice through the rims you can polish the XF calipers like chrome, with some slotted rotors, they look pretty cool.
To set up a booster, you can buy after market or mod an XB unit, and use an XB master cylinder, these have built in proportioning valve, and you can buy new PBR ones off the shelf.

[eri67]

thanks Shaun:(:(:(