1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.

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Offline lukep6470

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1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« on: May 09, 2022, 03:38:39 pm »
Hi,

I've had this car with RRS suspension for about 12 years now and I've finally decided to do something about the front springs.  It's a 1967 coupe with a 347, alloy heads, power steering and AC.  My issue is when you hit a small pothole or a bit of a lip of traffic calming it hits so hard you think you have broken the car as the fillings fall out of your teeth.

It currently has 275lb springs in it from RRS.  What spring rate are other people using with this combo and what experience are you having?

Also has anyone taken a look at the shocks to see what part number they are?  I am pretty sure they are KYB AGX using Google foo but that is as far as I could get without ripping the struts apart.  I'm sure they are getting due to be replaced soon.


Offline Dingo80

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2022, 06:11:21 pm »
Sorry off topic but can I ask how you have found the struts other than the spring rate? Do you have the power rack and pinion also? I bought this kit for my 65 maybe 10 or so years ago and have only just finished mock up and strip ready for paint with never having driven on them. I have heard the turning circle is not very good but interested to know. From my research, struts are basically VT Commodore spec.

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2022, 09:02:36 pm »
The hubs are absolutely VT Commodore, the car had what I think they call the phase 2 brakes on and I got some bigger brakes off a VZ SSV and once the rotors were drilled for the Ford bolt pattern all of it just bolted on.  This gave me 320mm rotors that need 17" wheels to fit.  The struts however seem to be completely custom as there is no way a 2.5"idx10"long spring will fit the front of a VT-VZ.

It has the full front end with the RHD rack power rack and while it does have a large turning circle compared to a modern car I had used it as a daily driver for about 5 years (I haven't needed to drive to work for years).  A lot of people seem to blow the ends out of the rack with the wrong pressure power steering pump.  Mine has the RRS supplied pump on it and the rack is still leak free 35000Ks and 12 years later.

I haven't driven a stock 67 Mustang to compare turning circles.  I'll have to track one down at a cars and coffee or something and see if we can do a test with the 2 cars.

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2022, 09:07:34 pm »
Sorry off topic but can I ask how you have found the struts other than the spring rate? Do you have the power rack and pinion also? I bought this kit for my 65 maybe 10 or so years ago and have only just finished mock up and strip ready for paint with never having driven on them. I have heard the turning circle is not very good but interested to know. From my research, struts are basically VT Commodore spec.

Can you take a look at the springs and see what rate they are please?  RRS are supposed to supply ones suited to your combination and ride preference.  If they are similar to mine they will be QA1 springs with the length and rate written on them.  Mine has 10-275 on them which means 10" long and 275lb spring rate.

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2022, 10:52:07 pm »
Hey Luke,
I think you need to see a professional.
It all depends on the front weight of your car, your travel compression and rebound, Shock or strut angle and dampening and rebound and how much you want it to compress and what the bump stops are if any.
You probably need something over 500lb/in.
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2022, 11:14:17 pm »
Hey Dan,
This is how I worked out the rear spring rates on my car.

Car weight,
Total, 1500kg / 3300lbs
Rear, 860kg / 1900lbs (need to minus unsprung weight, about 300lb)
1900 minus 300 = 1600lbs. X .8 for spring angle = 1280lbs.
Divid that by 2 = 640lb, so with 400lb springs should move 1.6”
Then I set the Shock height on the axle and screwed the Shock spring to give desired preload and desired road height.
With that I have my AVO coil overs 14 clicks into 22 full clicks.

I haven’t changed weight into dynamic force, that’s where you need a professional.

Cheers Phil.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2022, 11:27:51 pm by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2022, 07:59:20 am »
Hey Luke,
I think you need to see a professional.
It all depends on the front weight of your car, your travel compression and rebound, Shock or strut angle and dampening and rebound and how much you want it to compress and what the bump stops are if any.
You probably need something over 500lb/in.
Cheers Phil.

Hi, thanks for the info, I think you misunderstood I am looking for a more comfortable ride  :smile01: It currently has 275lb springs which I reckon the PO got from RRS as a "more race car" ride. 

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2022, 09:16:52 am »
Hi, thanks for the info, I think you misunderstood I am looking for a more comfortable ride  :smile01: It currently has 275lb springs which I reckon the PO got from RRS as a "more race car" ride.

Hey Dan,
Sorry I misunderstood you, I was thinking the struts were bottoming out.
With the struts, have they adjustable. (Compression and Rebound)
Standing beside the car and pushing down on the fenders does it seem stiff or soft.
Cheers Phil.
« Last Edit: May 10, 2022, 09:19:53 am by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2022, 02:59:00 pm »
Real stiff, the adjustment on the shocks doesn't seem to make any difference to the severity of the hit that's why I now think it is the springs.  The bump doesn't have to be anywhere near big enough to bottom out the springs.

That's why I was wondering if maybe RRS are now shipping the struts with different rate springs on them.  Mine is apparently one of the first installs.

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2022, 04:56:03 pm »
Hey Luke,
What’s the road height of the car, could the springs be wound up tight against the stops and you have zero preload.
If so you car would be very high at the front.
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline Aussie-67

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2022, 08:36:39 pm »
 I swapped in Gabriels, which are softer and I've found them much more comfortable, and IMO better for the car
[/quote]

Hey mate, are the Gabriel's the classic shock?

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2022, 09:08:21 pm »
Hey Luke,
What’s the road height of the car, could the springs be wound up tight against the stops and you have zero preload.
If so you car would be very high at the front.
Cheers Phil.

No it is lowered at the front by an inch or so. If you go over a speed bump slowly it does move up and down as expected.  It's when you hit a small sharp bump at speed that it really thumps.

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2022, 09:10:57 pm »
275lbs doesn't sound like a stiff front spring to me.
If they are stiff then they surely won't be bottoming out on small bumps. I think more likely the dampening of your shocks is way too firm, preventing the springs from doing their job properly and so the front end is crashing into bumps rather than reacting and absorbing them.

I have a '67 FB. When I restored it many years ago I installed KYB shocks, seemed to be pretty much a standard catalog item that everyone used.
But on the FB I thought them too firm, the front end seemed too unyielding over bumps, so eventually I swapped in Gabriels, which are softer and I've found them much more comfortable, and IMO better for the car too.

Trial and error to some extent isn't it?
My 2c worth anyway.

Interesting as I think these are KYB AGX adjustable strut inserts.  There appears to be little difference between the hardest and softest settings.  I'd love to get the part number without pulling the car apart.

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2022, 07:03:44 am »
Hey Luke,
Sorry to say but it seems it Time to pull the springs off and check the struts.

I’ve got to apologise about saying 275Lb/in not very stiff, being a strut there is no overhang so 275 or less would be correct.

Cheers Phil.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2022, 07:15:09 am by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline Dingo80

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2022, 05:58:19 pm »
Can you take a look at the springs and see what rate they are please?  RRS are supposed to supply ones suited to your combination and ride preference.  If they are similar to mine they will be QA1 springs with the length and rate written on them.  Mine has 10-275 on them which means 10" long and 275lb spring rate.

I can't seem to find any numbers on my springs. They are blue and probably more than 10 years old so I might in the same boat as you. Where did you see the numbers. I do recall something around 275lb. Is it possible you haven't done the nut up to the bottom of spring of enough to get enough a preload into the spring?

I am just about to pull my struts out as have finished mock up so will try and pull them apart and have a look. Mine is still lefthand drive and was having loads of problems getting pulleys to line up so have bought a vintage air kit with power steering pump so won't be using the RRS one. Hopefully it all works.

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #15 on: May 11, 2022, 08:35:32 pm »
This is a pic with the wheel dangling in the air.  The 10-275 means 10" long springs with 275lb rate.  When I got the car I had the front end setup by Bob Grant in Milton who does a lot of racing car setup so hopefully they know how to adjust coil overs.

Offline Dingo80

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #16 on: May 11, 2022, 09:24:32 pm »
Mine are different to that. I will post up a couple of pics in the morning but I can't see any numbers anywhere on my springs. I will try and pull the struts apart off the springs hopefully on the weekend and come back.

Not sure what they are called but you have refitted the inner fender plates that go around the spring bolting to the shock tower of engine bay. The ones that hide the spring looking in the wheel well. I thought I read in the RRS instructions somewhere, that you don't refit that. I was going to get the holes welded up but wonder if they are part of the strengthening of the shock towers. I have the notch plates installed on mine as well as a one piece export brace/monte carlo bar from Maier racing so figure there should be plenty of strength?
« Last Edit: May 11, 2022, 09:28:11 pm by Dingo80 »

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #17 on: May 12, 2022, 09:10:51 am »
Sorry the previous owner got them installed and engineered so I can't say exactly what was done.  I can only say there have been no visible stress crack or deformation in over 40,000Ks of street driving. I did however replace the factory brace with the RRS one with the cross brace. 

One thing to be aware of,  mine had the red urethane bushings that went brittle with age and the steering rack tried to fall out of the car!!  I don't think RRS use the red ones any more.

Offline FB.65.68.70

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #18 on: May 12, 2022, 02:09:18 pm »
Have you contacted RRS to ask them what spring rate they recommend ?
Because the springs on yours are QA1's , RRS use lovells springs which are blue in colour. At some stage someone has swapped the QA1's in, possibly for a firmer ride.
The coils also look really close together , I'd be wary that they get coil bind which could give quite a jolt through your body work.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2022, 02:10:54 pm by FB.65.68.70 »

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2022, 07:21:16 am »
Have you contacted RRS to ask them what spring rate they recommend ?
Because the springs on yours are QA1's , RRS use lovells springs which are blue in colour. At some stage someone has swapped the QA1's in, possibly for a firmer ride.
The coils also look really close together , I'd be wary that they get coil bind which could give quite a jolt through your body work.

Hey FB and Luke,
I was thinking the same but there is no thread at the bottom to adjust it off.
What’s at the top of the spring, hopefully not a packer.
Easy fix though!
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #20 on: May 13, 2022, 10:41:25 am »
At the top is the bearing cap like you see in the RRS Youtube videos.  Actually I just took a quick look at the really old video where the guy is installing them in the Falcon and the springs are silver.  Maybe years ago they used QA1 springs.  I bought the car in 2008 with the setup installed.

On the weekend I will back the springs off 1/2 an inch and see what that does to the ride height.

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #21 on: May 13, 2022, 10:42:49 am »
At around 1:27 they do a close up of the spring and you can see QA1 written on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74PUns_dQQE


Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #22 on: May 13, 2022, 10:54:36 am »
At the top is the bearing cap like you see in the RRS Youtube videos.  Actually I just took a quick look at the really old video where the guy is installing them in the Falcon and the springs are silver.  Maybe years ago they used QA1 springs.  I bought the car in 2008 with the setup installed.

On the weekend I will back the springs off 1/2 an inch and see what that does to the ride height.

Hey Luke ,
I think backing them off is a good idea!
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline lukep6470

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #23 on: May 13, 2022, 11:14:30 am »
Yep that photo is with the wheel dangling so the springs are actually more opened up than when it is on the ground.  There is about 6 inches of thread below the lock nut it just doesn't show up in the photo.

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: 1967 With RRS struts and spring rate.
« Reply #24 on: May 13, 2022, 11:19:11 am »
Yep that photo is with the wheel dangling so the springs are actually more opened up than when it is on the ground.  There is about 6 inches of thread below the lock nut it just doesn't show up in the photo.

Hey,
I think you’re on the right track, I couldn’t see any thread on the photo, So that’s a good thing!
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!