Technical & General Discussion Area > Tech Torque Pre 1973

Temp In Relation To Gauge

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J.hatzivalsamis:
I have gone down this road and as Geoff 289 said get an engine guard and set your alarm to the desired temp and have a stress free experience.

Shep69:
Thanks for the replies guys. As im running fuel injection i do have the temp reading on the handheld verified correct from my fluke temp gun.
I have an adjustable voltage regulator under the dash for the gauges so i just needed to know were the needle should sit around running temp.
I filled the fuel tank yesterday and got the motor up to running temp and adjusted the regulator.
So now the fuel reads full and the temp needle is in the middle at 190 deg.   :pepper:

scollist:
Great work!!  :bow:

I had issues when I first got my car with it showing that it was overheating. Turned out I had a late 65/66 temp sender in a 4V manifold, but had the early 65 sweeping dash which needed the early 65 temp sender (the skinnier one).  Replaced the sender with an adapter and it reads perfect.

For my fuel tank - I did a lot of trial and error to bend the sender arm to the right position. It reads perfectly now - BUT an adjustable voltage regulator would've been fantastic!! 

Where do you get one of these adjustable voltage regulators? (just for info).

67FBGT:
Well, I never twigged that there are 4 different sender units - duh!  :thud: One can learn something new every day...

Is there a schedule somewhere that tells us which unit is required for which engine spec? I have a 302 with 4V. The sender unit is white.
TIA

scollist:
67FBT - This article (originally from Mustang Monthly I think) might help.

https://forum.mustang.org.au/index.php/topic,12082.0.html

You could also look at https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mump-1303-how-to-diagnose-gauge-problems/.

Essentially you need to know the high resistance level that will show 'low' on the gauge, and the low resistance level that will show 'high' on the gauge, and then match the sender to that.  You can use a resistance wheel with a full 12 volt feed to the gauge to determine the resistance levels that the gauge wants (i.e. bypass the sender - but make sure you are still going via the voltage regulator - as the gauges only expect a 5 volts, not 12 volts. A bit of Ford legacy).

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