Technical & General Discussion Area > Restomods

Shelby drop.

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AussiePhil:

--- Quote from: scollist on August 24, 2021, 11:15:12 am ---Hi Phil.

I installed Moog balljoints upper ball joints on my 65 when I redid the front.  My understanding is that they are engineered to compensate for the binding that the Shelby drop may cause.  So might be worth looking at instead of using the wedge kit.

Cheers
Shane

--- End quote ---

Hey, thanks Shane,
I’m in the middle of the first side, going ok at the moment, I’ll have a look if the ball joints are branded while I’m at it.
A lot of work has been done by the first Australian owner, Lovell springs, Koni shocks and new perches, I’d imagine new ball joints as well!
I thought I read somewhere that 67 on didn’t have this problem, but it may have been something else!
I borrowed my sons spring compressors but they are a bit long and bulky, anyone buying some need to get short slim ones.
I’ll refit the bump stop plate and do the movement test without the spring later and I’ll probably make a set of wedges anyhow! I have a milling machine! I can’t afford to drop much height either, I’ll make a 1/4” shim for on top of the spring insulator or buy a fatter spring insulator.
Cheers Phil.

Megzee67:
Hi Phil,
I came across these values a few years ago for the 67 Shelby Drop alignment set up.
1. No more than .25 degrees between drivers and passengers side.
2. +2.0 to + 3.5 degrees Caster
3. -.5 to 0 degrees Camber [ No negative camber ] There is no problem having slight variation from drivers & passengers side to account for road surface camber.

When I was doing my Shelby drop, I also fabricated and installed Shock tower gussets, roller spring perches, Passenger side torque box along with the chassis rail connectors.

As a side note, following the blasting of my engine bay, it was interesting to find 4 or 5 hairline [ 1 fairly severe] cracks of both shock towers due to twisting motion over the years.

AussiePhil:
Hey Michael,
How are you doing, crazy here in Bathurst!
Thanks for the info, I have stripped back the engine bay a few years ago and didn’t find anything unusual.
The car is in pretty good condition.
Cheers Phil.

Megzee67:
Hi Phil,
All good thanks, but "crazy" with a capital "C" here in Vietnam.....I have been trying to get back to Aus for several months now..... :flag:

Yep, I am sure your lovely 68 is in pristine condition mate.....I just mentioned the shock tower issues for the benefit of forum readers.....probably just one of a thousand issues that can be hidden behind paint....

Also read on another thread you were installing chassis rail connectors......looking forward to your updates and piccies.....seems like you are using your shed time productively mate... :thumb:

Cheers
Michael

AussiePhil:
Hey all,
I removed my sway bar this morning and tested the suspension movement for binding and it binds a lot before the bump stops! But it’s not the ball joints only, it’s the control arms as well. Binding up against the frame, in the original position the control arms hit the bump stop, but only just, the control arm is very close the the frame as well, and there appears to be witness marks that under some bumps the control arms have hit the frame.
There’s no part numbers stamped on the control arm but there is distinct brand marks on them.
I’m off now to remove the control arms to inspect further and get some good photos.
It won’t be a problem, I’ll just relieve the area on the control arms binding.
Cheers Phil.

Update;
That’s one problem solved, I cut 1/4” off the top lip and a bit of the corner, now the upper control arm hits the bump stop.
Cheers Phil.

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