Camber Issues

[boofhead]

As has been suggested above - I would expect the shock towers have moved inward over time. Quite common. The Granada spindles have the same 8.5 deg angle as the mustang spindles (as do all the ford spindles [of that basic design]). The positon of the ball joint holes should be basically the same other than the position of the steering arm. It is the same as the 67/68 etc so it needs to be moved if used in a 65/66 to prevent extra bump steer. I am running a set of them (modified for bump steer) in my 65 with no issues. Another difference is the Axle is thicker than the 65/66 spindle and you would need an adapter if you wanted to use Kelsey Hays callipers (which I would not generally bother with doing - just run the single piston Granada callipers or substitute alloy XF callipers). 

I agree just pack the uppers to get the alignment right. As long as enough thread covers the bolts then your sweet.

[moe]

What about fitting up an Export Brace to confirm/fix the alignment of the shock towers?

[barnett468]

What about fitting up an Export Brace to confirm/fix the alignment of the shock towers?

the shock towers actually cave in more in the center where the arms are mounted but they can cave in a little on to also . . one should look very closely around the mount point on the inside of the engine compartment for cracks.

the export brace is always a good idea on any car with stiffer suspension.

[mk1_oz]

I have an export brace and a monte bar.

Cheers fellas.  Providing I can ensure there is nothing wrong with that upper CA then shims it is.  When replacing an item with another item that is supposed to be the same/similar but getting a massive camber change it just rings alarm bells.........

For what it is worth I got a reply from CJ's regarding the UCA length;

I measured the control arm and I got 11 3/8” to the back of the mounting nut as you had pictured. Overall length is 12 1/8”. Hope this helps you.

Not sure that he has measured the same as me but gives me something to go on.  From what boofhead has said above changing the spindle should have made no difference to the camber so that pretty much eliminates the UCA length as being an issue anyway.

[barnett468]

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yeah, its a bit odd but i would just shim it and drive it and if something falls of you will have found the problem. 

[mk1_oz]

Baahaaaa haaaaa.  I like your thinking........

Decided to bit the bullet and put new Scott Drake uppers on it anyway.  All very strange.

[mk1_oz]

Putting on the new upper control arms.  Is there any reason not to bolt them back to the standard location rather than use the 1" drop (shelby drop?) holes that a previous owner created????

Would like the car standard if possible.

I have used an internal spring compressor to compress the spring out of the way rather than remove it but getting the new upper in still took some wiggling!!!

[boofhead]

If you have both locations then it does not matter much. I would use the Shelby drop because this provides more Camber gain when suspension moves and (depending on where they are located) can also provide more static caster and caster gain as well. Having said that it is no problem going back to the original location point. Your likely to not notice any difference.

[shaunp]

Using the lower hole will actually make it more positive on droop and at normal ride height, but more neg on compression.

[barnett468]

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yeah, since the holes are already there, i would use them providing they are in the correct location . . it will steer/corner a little better/safer but will lower the car around 15 mm from the upper location.

[mk1_oz]

ok thanks.  the new holes are somewhat oval and possibly end up more than 1" lower.  If they measure OK I will use them else back up she goes 

[barnett468]

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you can also post a photo of them

[boofhead]

In general they should not be more than 1 inch lower - if they are (some lower them 1 3/4 inch) I would not use the holes - if you do then you need to use wedges between the upper arm and the ball joint. As far as the shape - should not be oval unless they were not drilled accurately or the upper arms were moving around a lot. I have seen a few get ovaled a little to make the arms fit. If it is sloppy with the arms in the holes then I would not use them.

[mk1_oz]

everything fitted.  i used the standard holes as the new ones just looked rubbish.

i have not put the wheels on or had it on the ground but the camber looks a heap better to my eyes........fingers crossed

[mk1_oz]

Wheel back on and everything look much better!!!  Another issue sorted with your help - many thanks.

When taking the old uppers off I found a couple of shims had fallen behind the upper arms.  I don't know but maybe when I was mucking around with the spring compressors putting the new lowers on they fell out causing the huge neg camber.  Old and new uppers were dimensionally the same.  I will never know......

[mk1_oz]

Getting the wheel alignment done tomorrow.  What are the standard caster, camber and toe adjustments for a 65?  Thought they had been posted above but cannot find them.

[shaunp]

3mm toe in, -1/4 to -1/2 deg camber, minimum of + 3deg castor, if it has PS give as much castor as it will take +5 etc

[mk1_oz]

 

[barnett468]

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i would use more toe in like around 6 mm on stock suspension . . this is because with stock suspension components, the wheels can actually loose toe in at higher speeds because they can splay outwards, and you do not ever want negative or outward toe.

[mk1_oz]

Yes I have toe out on my race car.  Makes it very skittish!!