Grant steering wheel installation

[RuxinsRage]

Hi all,

I have searched through previous threads on grant steering wheels & I know there are a few so apologies for starting a new one, but the others didn't really answer my questions.

I'm trying to install the grant steering wheel on my 67 mustang. No matter what I try it won't work. The instructions are terrible & I can't find any decent videos or images online. There are 2 wires & I wasn't sure if I had them attached to the correct plate so I tried them both ways. One way when I press the horn sparks fly out with no horn noise. The other way there was no sparks, but also no horn noise.

I understand from prev posts its not the best wheel & adapter but I gave paid for it, can't afford another at this stage, & really want to drive my car. Has anyone installed one successfully & can help please?

[boofhead]

I am running a Grant wheel. I like it. How can I help?

[RuxinsRage]

Hey thanks for the reply. It's good to hear someone has it installed & likes it. I was getting worried. Does it matter which wire connects to which plate? & if both ways have the issues mentioned in my first post do you know where I'm going wrong?

[cap70]

You probably blew the horn fuse the first time, from memory the grant horn contacts to ground, the orginal mustang horn switches on the 12v live side.
So you will need to run a relay

[RuxinsRage]

Ok so it's still very early stages for me learning about the auto electrics, what do you mean by I need to run a relay? & if it blew the fuse wouldn't I just need to replace that fuse? If so do you know which fuse it is or how I can find out?

[boofhead]

You have two main contacts which are on springs which project out of the plastic turn signal mechanism. These run along a plate which has basically two copper (wide) tracks that have a wire each that goes though the boss to the horn button. It is a simple mechanism. Push the horn it closes contact and current runs to drive the horns.  A relay is not 100% needed though it is suggested so the full current does not need to flow through the contacts and horn button.

[RuxinsRage]

Thanks I kinda understand how it works but does it matter which wire connects to which of the 2 plates that go on after the wheel & before the horn button?

[cap70]

The grant horn button tends to touch on the steering wheel when pressed shorting out to ground that is why a relay is recomended.

these colours should be correct for a 67.
You will need to cut the wires going to the  column (horn switch) and connect them as in the diagram i drew up.
those terminal numbers are for a standard bosch relay

[boofhead]

Thanks I kinda understand how it works but does it matter which wire connects to which of the 2 plates that go on after the wheel & before the horn button?

No - horn button is simply on or off. Meaning current flowing or open circuit.

[RuxinsRage]

Cap70 thanks for taking the time to draw the diagram out, im not too sure I can follow it though. I really appreciate you & boofhead both providing some info but I'm still not sure of a few things. So if it doesn't matter which wire connects to which plate then I haven't wired it wrong. So why would one way throw sparks when the horn button contacts the wheel? & getting back to the blown fuse, can I not just replace that & it's fixed?

[cap70]

Cap70 thanks for taking the time to draw the diagram out, im not too sure I can follow it though. I really appreciate you & boofhead both providing some info but I'm still not sure of a few things. So if it doesn't matter which wire connects to which plate then I haven't wired it wrong. So why would one way throw sparks when the horn button contacts the wheel? & getting back to the blown fuse, can I not just replace that & it's fixed?

because the mustang horn wiring switchs to 12volts if it touchs the negative/ground then thats what sparks and blows the fuse.
the grant horn kit has a fibre insulator but its thin and if the horn button is not perfectly centered the cap will touch the steering wheel causing a direct short to ground.
buy switching the negative side of the relay it no longer matters if the button touchs to ground as you are switching to ground anyway.
if you arn't confident with the wiring one of the guys up there in qld may be able to help you out or you will need an auto elec

[cap70]

oh and the fuse block should be just near the accelerator pedal, the fuse thats for the horn also supplies the cigaret lighter

[griff]

the relay is a great suggestion cap70.
when i first got a Grant wheel a few years ago i immediately saw there were going to be problems with the horn button's exposed contacts shorting out so as a quick fix i put insulation tape over them until i got the chance to rectify the problem by selling the wheel.
and surely by now theyve redesigned a way for the horn button to stay fastened on a hot day 

[BAC]

I went through the same dramas with the Grant wheel on my '69 Mach 1.  Rather than frig around with the standard setup which as already said is prone to shorting out against the steering wheel internals, get yourself one of the integrated horn buttons sold by places like GT Performance and CJ Pony Parts.

Unlike the standard Grant horn buttons that are a single piece of metal that presses down against exposed horn contacts, the ones mentioned above have the complete contact mechanism integrated into a spring loaded horn button.  You simply attach your two horn wires to the spade terminals on the underside of the button and you're done - a much better solution!

[boofhead]

That is what I am running - an integrated horn button. I did not realise it was not a standard item.

[BAC]

That is what I am running - an integrated horn button. I did not realise it was not a standard item.

This is what comes as standard:



Note the contact ring, one piece horn cap (no button) and separate spring.