260 Windsor Rebuild

[shaunp]

Saturday night special ,well that's Chevy talk  .  In the USA its not a engine is it mike    .  That 260 block most likely wont rebore at all if its not std bore size now and even if it is you will be lucky .

Superformance at Capalaba used to do a Chev engine  back in the 80's called a Saturday night special , yunk yard engine with rings bearings and an Ivan Tighe cam. They sold heaps of them.

[barnett468]

Saturday night special ,well that's Chevy talk  .  In the USA its not a engine is it mike 

i looked up the word chevrolet in the dictionary . . there was no description but there was this photo which i didn't quite understand.

[barnett468]

.
Ford compact . . pay no attention to the negative nancies, they’re just 260 haters.   


CYLINDER BORE SIZE CHECK

1. Remove valve cover and remove a cylinder head using a LONG breaker bar on the bolts . . It "should have alignment dowel pins in it so it "should" not fall off if the engine is sitting straight up in normal position . . if you are concerned that it might fall off, just rotate the engine on your rotating stand until the head is facing straight up.

IT MAY BE STUCK YO THE HEAD GASKET . . IF IT IS YOU CAN PUT A CROWBAR IN AN INTAKE OR EXHAUST PORT AND PRY IT OFF.

2. Scrub the top of the piston with a steel or brass wire brush and carburetor cleaner or paint thinner to remove the carbon.

3. If it has been bored out larger than stock, there will be a small engraved number on the top of the piston near the center . . it should say .020 or .030 or .040 . . there may be additional numbers . . tell us all the numbers you see.


CYLINDER LINER RUST CHECK

1. Take an old medium sized blade screw driver and a hammer.

2. place the screw driver against the edge of the freeze plug and beat the crap out of it . . it should” push that edge inward and the other edge outward kinda sorta.

3. grab the lip of the plug with channel locks or vice grips and pry it out.

4. get a flashlight and look in the hole at the cylinder wall . . it will be rusty . . if the rust is fairly smooth, it is likely ok to bore to .040” over . . if the rusty looks thick, it may not go .040 without running a little warm/hot.

5. it can be kept cool with a good cooling system but if the rust is really thick I would not go .040.

[shaunp]

You can just get the bores sonic tested if needs be, I think its best if he just lets the engine shop work it out  If its only done 60 k mile its likely standard bore so you will it be  ok I suspect,

[barnett468]

You can just get the bores sonic tested if needs be, I think its best if he just lets the engine shop work it out  If its only done 60 k mile its likely standard bore so you will it be  ok I suspect,

yes but the reason i didn't mention that is because it is around $250.00 usd to do in the us which is nuts so i figuered i would try and save him some money . . if his cylinders don't look very scaly inside the water jacket, its not really necessary . . even with core shift blocks, i have been able to cool them in 100 degree heat if they were .040" over.

[shaunp]

I'm sure the shop will measure and hot tank it first up, before they start, that's normally what happens and they can decide what it needs, I assume the shop he is going to is reputable, in which case they will be fine with and old Windsor, no brainer  compared to modern multi valve , multi cam engines. Best for him to not over think it.

[Ford Compact 1963]

Ok guys have rung a few places.

Looking at between 5500 and 6500 for rebuild!

What are your opinions on run in procedures as two places said they just give the built motor back and we can install and one place said it must be dyno run in?

Getting baffled guys.

[Ford Compact 1963]

Ok guys have rung a few places.

Looking at between 5500 and 6500 for rebuild!

What are your opinions on run in procedures as two places said they just give the built motor back and we can install and one place said it must be dyno run in?

Getting baffled guys.

[shaunp]

No need to dyno run, a stockish engine just bed the cam. 5k is about correct for a properly rebuilt engine. They may want to do it, so you don't screw it up, lots of people damage the cam in the first 5 mins running.

[barnett468]

Ok guys have rung a few places.

Looking at between 5500 and 6500 for rebuild!

That better include the mini stroker kit and head mods. 
 

What are your opinions on run in procedures as two places said they just give the built motor back and we can install and one place said it must be dyno run in?

I have never gotten a flat cam using my patented procedure below.


INTAKE MANIFOLD AND VALVE COVER BOLTS

Check them for tightness, they may have loosened.


OIL

Joe gibbs break in oil


PRIME

Spin oil pump with 1/2” drill for 30 seconds.
Turn crank 180 degrees and spin pump for 10 seconds
Turn crank 180, spin for 10.
Turn 180, spin for 10.


VALVE SPRINGS

If you have a non roller cam and your spring pressure is more than around 280, I would consider removing the inner valve springs for break in if you have duals . . You can also have cams pre-broken in by Cam Research or other shop.


VALVE LASH

comp lifters are crap and they may make a ticking sound . . Adjust the comp lifters to 1/2 turn preload.


TIMING

Turn engine until intake valve is fully closed then turn almost 1/2 turn until you see timing marks on damper and line them up with tdc.

Remove distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to number 1 cylinder spark plug wire.

Remove all plug wires except for number 1 cylinder.

Plug the distributor vacuum advance until after break in then plug it into ported vacuum providing there is no vacuum at the port at idle.

Connect timing lite and turn engine over by jumping the two forward posts together in the starter solenoid with a short screw driver etc ir have someone operate the key and set it to 10 btdc.

Reconnect plug wires.


THERMOSTAT

Remove it


RADIATOR FLUID

Use water only and and fill it to 1 inch below bottom of filler neck.


HOSES

Tighten them, then tighten them again.


FAN

Put a big one in front of the rad.


STARTING

Have someone start if while you operate the throttle on the carb.

Instantly rev it up to around 2000 rpm and set idle screw.

After a few minutes the rpm will increase, reduce it to 2000 rpm and maintain this rpm for 30 minutes.


AFTER BREAK IN

Let engine cool for 30 minutes.

Re-check intake manifold and valve cover bolts and fan belt tension and hoses.

Re-install 180 - 185 thermostat.

Refill with water and let idle for 7 minutes.

Turn off and open lever on rad cap to release pressure.

Fill it to 1 inch below the bottom of the filler neck.

Test drove for 30 minutes . . Accelerate from 40 to 65 kph then immediately back down to 40 kph around every 3 minutes . . This will help break the things in more quickly.

Drain water and install anti freeze.

Let idle for 7 minutes.

Turn off and open lever on rad cap to release pressure.

Fill it to 1 inch below the bottom of the filler neck.


OIL AND FILTER CHANGE

After 200 miles.




............................Then...

    .

[Ford Compact 1963]

This is exactly my thoughts Shaun re cam I was told this today !

[barnett468]

This is exactly my thoughts Shaun re cam I was told this today !

What is "re-cam"?

[Ford Compact 1963]

What is "re-cam"?

Re is regarding

[skev]

As Jules said, 'english, you do speak it?'

[barnett468]

As Jules said, 'english, you do speak it?'

"Speaketh I not the language from the land of thy almighty Roo, therefore I beseech thee to bestowest thine wisdom in in it's mysterious proverbs with patience and kindness for all the days of our lives...ahmen."

psalm 23, verse 7, from the book of barnett 

 . . 

[GEOFF289]

Let me firstly say I strongly recommend you pay attention more attention to Shaun than to me.

Like me, it seems your mechanical knowledge has its limitations. If you end up looking after the initial start up and cam bed in yourself make sure you get the oil pressure up and have the distributor in the right ballpark so it will start with as little cranking as possible. Once its going run it for 20 minutes or so at about 2,000 rpm (right Shaun?) to bed the cam in. Continual cranking and stuffing around trying to get it going could see your cam toasted before you've even started the engine.

If you get the engine back with the distributor already in it (presumably in the ballpark) and, like me, are nervous about taking it out to prime the oil pressure I did it with a pressurised garden sprayer. I have posted this procedure here in the past.

[shaunp]

Yeah you need to fire them straight up, I prime the oil pump with a drill, stick in the dissy and light the fire. 20min I normally vary the speed around a little averaging 2k though just no low speed. The reason it really to make sure there is enough oil splash thrown off the crank to keep the cam wet while it work hardens. Cam lobes rely purely on splash. The initial bed in work hardens the surface. Dont cook/boil it while   bedding the cam.

[Pinto Pete]

Superformance at Capalaba used to do a Chev engine  back in the 80's called a Saturday night special , yunk yard engine with rings bearings and an Ivan Tighe cam. They sold heaps of them.

Does it make me old that I remember them..?

[griff]

Does it make me old that I remember them..?

hopefully only if you used them pete!
you shouldve said " when i was my early teens i remember...yada yada..."   

[Pinto Pete]

hopefully only if you used them pete!
you shouldve said " when i was my early teens i remember...yada yada..."   

Grandpa told me about em......

[shaunp]

Does it make me old that I remember them..?

I guess it makes you about the same as me. A mate had a 400 Chev Saturday night special, with Fuely heads in a HQ Premier wagon, went like a train 

[minipete]

My 64 is a 260 car and has a 289 fitted but came with the original engine. 

I did some research a few years ago on the American forums trying to decide whether to rebuild the 260 or stick with the 289 and the yanks reckon it's really hard to get any performance out of the 260.  There's so much good stuff available over there you'd think they could do it.  Can't remember specifics but I decided to stay with the 289.

Pete

[Ford Compact 1963]

Gents

Engine in for full rebuild with some mild performance modifications. Can anyone assist with CAM advice type and brand ?

[barnett468]

Gents

Engine in for full rebuild with some mild performance modifications.

xln't, so finally found a builder that wasn't an a hole?

Can anyone assist with CAM advice type and brand ?

Absolutely not until you tell us EXACTLY what the performance mods are because EVERYTHING must be matched to achieve the best performance.

we also need to know if you are putting pins in the studs as i suggested or are installing screw in studs . . if you do neither, you should not run a cam any bigger than a stock one as i previously mentioned.

we also need to know what trans and rear gears you will be using.

this being said, from what i can remember, my guess is that a very good cam for your application would be a comp xr256h.

here it is.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=798&sb=0

buy it here p/n cc-31-234-3

http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/401430
.

[shaunp]

Yep that will do.