Author Topic: Transmission cooler mounting (Read 12577 times)

barnett468 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 10, 2015, 02:26:44 pm »

Quote from: Ron Beckhaus on March 10, 2015, 12:16:55 pm

Spot on, Barnett.Well done, fo' a yankee, that is...

Xlnt...than you...It appears my Aussie translation guide is working.

GLENN 70 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 10, 2015, 03:17:10 pm »

Hmm looks like I'm the only one on here that knows you and where your from and where you live now Hey Mike .

barnett468 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 10, 2015, 03:23:23 pm »

Quote from: GLENN 70 on March 10, 2015, 03:17:10 pm

Hmm looks like I'm the only one on here that knows you and where your from and where you live now Hey Mike .

Yes so you are the only one that knows my "secret"...

rhinosoft007 · « **Reply #28 on:** March 10, 2015, 04:13:02 pm »

Good work barnett468 - the more input the better and your's is good mate!! (better that is!!)

Graeme

RayAzza · « **Reply #29 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:03:13 pm »

This is where I decided today to mount, got 35mm from core to floor to breath and once plumbed in will make a sheild.
Ray

barnett468 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:09:56 pm »

.
is that your car?

yeah that will work . . the spacers allow the air to actually blow thru it plus you will pick up some free air flow.

you can also use stainless socket [allen] head bolts and washers to mount it to give it that custom look.

shaunp · « **Reply #31 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:12:11 pm »

I would have put it up the front less issue with rocks,

67FBGT · « **Reply #32 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:14:02 pm »

You'd have to if your car had a torque box there.
But it will certainly be well hidden!
You could always bend up a piece of perforated metal to protect it.

shaunp · « **Reply #33 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:16:02 pm »

Quote from: 67FBGT on March 10, 2015, 05:14:02 pm

You'd have to if your car had a torque box there.
But it will certainly be well hidden!
You could always bend up a piece of perforated metal to protect it.

I put torque box in them all.

RayAzza · « **Reply #34 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:24:13 pm »

Yes Barnett that's my fastback and I have strengthened it up other ways with full length subframe connectors some welding on the strut tower areas etc. not worried about the look you won't see it once covered.

barnett468 · « **Reply #35 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:33:37 pm »

Quote from: 67FBGT on March 10, 2015, 05:14:02 pm

You'd have to if your car had a torque box there.
But it will certainly be well hidden!
You could always bend up a piece of perforated metal to protect it.

yes sir,

one can get some wire mesh from the hardware [or chicken coop store] with fairly large holes like 4 mm x 4 mm and the height or width plus a few inches then put two 90 degree bends on each end so it ends up going under the mounting bolts which will secure it . . could also use bolts around 65 mm longer with spacers on the outside then put washers on the bolts, then the screen, then another washer, then the spacer, then go thru the cooler sand other spacer and washer . . use nylon lock nuts.

some places may have it in aluminum and stainless . . obviously it will still get road dirt and water etc so it might need periodic cleaning . . i would have tried in front of the tire too as i originally mentioned but this is certainly easy.

barnett468 · « **Reply #36 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:36:13 pm »

.

Quote from: RayAzza on March 10, 2015, 05:24:13 pm

Yes Barnett that's my fastback and I have strengthened it up other ways with full length subframe connectors some welding on the strut tower areas etc. not worried about the look you won't see it once covered.

ok...i thought it was all together . . obviously a very nice car that won't likely be seeing any water puddles, lol.

that car is nice enough that i would certainly be looking underneath which is the only reason i would do the stainless . . if your car was not that nice, id say leave them . . it kinda looks like you have AMK bolts on the idler arm so im guessing you kinda care what it looks like under there, lol . . i don't think it looks bad at all and in fact i think it looks kinda racy so i would go whole hog.

RayAzza · « **Reply #37 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:41:05 pm »

Cheers mate I will leave the sheild for last still got plenty to do, put the motor and box in and get the wiring re done here's where I am at.

RayAzza · « **Reply #38 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:43:16 pm »

Sat the Monte Carlo bar on today in the photo it's amazing how much the strut towers have moved out.

barnett468 · « **Reply #39 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:55:15 pm »

Quote from: RayAzza on March 10, 2015, 05:43:16 pm

Sat the Monte Carlo bar on today in the photo it's amazing how much the strut towers have moved out.

wow, nice work, i don't envy you . . takes a long time to do this type of stuff.

i actually had a 66 car the same color as yours with the same color engine compartment . . it was dome like a shelby and eleanor . . i called it a shelanor . . i bought it that way then detailed the engine with a bunch of shiny stuff, lol.

yeah the towers are scarily flimsy, lol . . export braces help a lot too . . national parts depot sells a thick one.

just though id post these in case you haven't seen them before . . they come in chrome, stainless and black . . i have used a lot of them . . got tired of looking sat hex head bolts.

RayAzza · « **Reply #40 on:** March 10, 2015, 05:59:06 pm »

That's exactly what I am using in Stainless

barnett468 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 10, 2015, 06:16:16 pm »

Quote from: RayAzza on March 10, 2015, 05:59:06 pm

That's exactly what I am using in Stainless

nice...

had to look at my old car again after seeing yours . . hated to sell it.

sits a bit too high in the back

the engine was ugly and the engine bay was already done [badly, not nice like yours] when i got it so i threw all the ugly stiff away and reddid the entire thing . . it was also black so i painted it silver but i never finished it . . i was going to add stainless covered spark plug wires and billet aluminum scott drake shock tower caps, chrome master, booster and master cover, coli and fuel pump etc.

69ISH · « **Reply #42 on:** March 10, 2015, 06:19:53 pm »

Quote from: RayAzza on March 10, 2015, 05:59:06 pm

That's exactly what I am using in Stainless

I hope it is not an aluminium oil cooler that you are using stainless bolts through because if it is don't expect it to last.

RayAzza · « **Reply #43 on:** March 10, 2015, 06:47:40 pm »

G'day 69ish the bolts are being used thru out the engine bay not the cooler.
Cheers

RayAzza · « **Reply #44 on:** March 10, 2015, 06:53:47 pm »

Nice car Barnett

shaunp · « **Reply #45 on:** March 10, 2015, 07:31:33 pm »

You shouldn't really use stainless any where they are under load. Stainless wont take tension, 304/316 etc is really not suited. If you can fit a straight monty bar on as well that's a much better option. Maier racing make a really nice welded one piece triangle brace they are the go.

67FBGT · « **Reply #46 on:** March 10, 2015, 07:54:47 pm »

Quote

Sat the Monte Carlo bar on today in the photo it's amazing how much the strut towers have moved out.

Don't they usually collapse inwards & need spreading again? That's what I've seen with a number of friends' cars.

Yes, re stainless - don't mix it with other metals like aluminium & especially zinc, you'll get accelerated corrosion. Keep different metals well apart.

shaunp · « **Reply #47 on:** March 10, 2015, 08:02:05 pm »

Quote from: 67FBGT on March 10, 2015, 07:54:47 pm

Don't they usually collapse inwards & need spreading again? That's what I've seen with a number of friends' cars.

Yes, re stainless - don't mix it with other metals like aluminium & especially zinc, you'll get accelerated corrosion. Keep different metals well apart.

Yep but a lot of the monty bars are crap and can be like 15 mm to narrow, not sure if its deliberate so people don't complain they wont go in. The Export brace it what normally tells up if the towers are ok.

Transmission cooler mounting

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Author Topic: Transmission cooler mounting (Read 12577 times)