oil splatting on extractors under load?

[aussie trev]

Try retension head again,incase its loose it . what heads are they?. procomp are bad for the  face not been machined properly.just bad heads.

[shaunp]

Head gasket.

[Macka]

Yep, its leaking from the head gasket. 

Remove and surface grind the head and replace with a decent gasket and tension down.

[zlat347ci]

Thats what I thought, however there is no pressure in the oil chanels and if it was leaking that freely id probably loose all my oil in one drive...

They are edelbrock performer rpm heads

Engine was built about 3 years ago by reputable builder never had this issue till now.

Does anybody know the torque specs? Does this go by head type or bolts? I have the arp kit

[zlat347ci]

So I had another play around after a drive it appears most bolts from the intake manifold were loose. 2 in fact were finger loose (tightened these couple weeks back) however I still cannot trace the leak that hight both ends of intake are sealed well, they look it anyway

Can anyone tell me the torque settings for the intake manifold? Cheers

[shaunp]

If the intake was loose what happens is they suck air go lean and can burn the head gasket, do a compression check and leak down test.

[aussie trev]

The head bolt torque for victor jnr heads i have ,are listed on installation sheet are
7/16 bolts 70 ft/lb in three steps following  factory tightening sequence, then tighten the long (upper)head bolts to 80ft/lb.
make sure you use lube on arp bolts or nuts on thread and collar washer.
intake bolts 16-18 ft/lb.

[shaunp]

The head bolt torque for victor jnr heads i have ,are listed on installation sheet are
7/16 bolts 70 ft/lb in three steps following  factory tightening sequence, then tighten the long (upper)head bolts to 80ft/lb.
make sure you use lube on arp bolts or nuts on thread and collar washer.
intake bolts 16-18 ft/lb.

Don't bother, if the head is leaking it's toast, just do a compression and leak down first. Not uncommon on a 347 to blow head gaskets as the block moves around a lot.

[boofhead]

It is the bolts (and lube used) not the head that determines the final torque figure.
Using ARP molly with the ARP 7/16 bolts are 80-ft/lb final torque - agree three step process.
I usually add an extra 5-ft/lb to the upper (eg long) bolts.

You can look up the PDF manual for the bolts on ARP site so while I do not know the part number I would expect it to confirm officially 80-ft/lb all round.

[businesstrader]

Is yours an auto? I had a similar problem. It turned out to be oil being blown up the transmission dip stick pipe when the stick wasn't seated properly. The tranny fluid from the FMX box dropped onto the RHS exhaust when the engine was under load.

Just a thought.

Good luck

Dave

I am waiting for my new dipstick tube to arrive today so I can fix this exact same problem.

[aussie trev]

what dip stick did you buy? there's a locking one for drag racing applications, i haven't tried it before.

[sms777]

It's blown head gasket caused by incorrect torquing. Since heads need removing invest in O-ringed FelPro head gaskets part #FE1011-1. Make sure you get heads checked for straighness, they may need surface grind. Torque it down to 80 ft pounds in three steps using ARP lubricants on threads. You will never have a problem again.   

[zlat347ci]

Ok so had some spare time this weekend, pulled the heads off and what do you know, the passenger side gasket is absolutely distroyed. It appears it was leaking from the galley into or ontop of the head gasket. Clear pil stains on gasket show the travell.

I think ive stumbled onto something else.......

Can someone correct me if im wrong, the front coolant passages should be blocked by the gasket and the rears should be open?

If thats the case then both head gaskets were installed back to front!!!!

[shaunp]

Who built the engine?

[boofhead]

Indeed the rear has the coolant passages. Most head gaskets do have the 'front' labelled  though it is surprising how common this mistake is made. No where near as critical as mistake, the other common mistake is not drilling the steam holes in early blocks to match the revised coolant holes in later (hence current after market) heads.

[shaunp]

if a PROFESSIONAL  engine builder builds engines all day long ,,

& this issue is VERY COMMON KNOWLEDGE,,, then it shouldnt have happened,,,
 
unless they had a NEWBY _APPRENTICE build it ?

Its very common mate, most engine builders don't give a crap. It must have been getting hot, I'll bet as Boofhead said the steam holes are not done either.

[zlat347ci]

Was built by reputable builder however was done with previous owner, dont want to shoot the builder in the foot as I dont now whats happened from when it got built to me buying it, however have receipts for motor and was a very expensive build so would certainly be embarrassing if its the engine builders mistake.

Ive beem through 3 radiators tyring to cool this motor, never overheated however I just didn't feel comfterble with it sitting around 190 200 all the time.  I now have  a large cross flow aussie dessert cooler and au thermos and keeps the temps real cool, so with the gasket installed the right thr motor should run even better.

[shaunp]

It will be fine. over heating is a myth there is always something wrong. Make sure the steam holes line up with the block and heads as well or you'll need to drill new ones.

[zlat347ci]

 First drive today after head gasket change to club event and temp gauge didnt move of 180 even in heavy traffic and warm weather. Oil leak fixed and the bonus was discovering the gaskets back to front originally.

[Macka]

That's good now you can drive and enjoy the car and maybe have your problems diagnosed online.