Author Topic: CAR POLISH (Read 386794 times)

Brumby1 · « **Reply #525 on:** March 23, 2013, 08:08:37 pm »

Hey Rod
Water marks on my ute. Menzernza PO 203 wont quite remove them however 3M extra cut (1200 scratches ) on an orange pad does a good job Will follow up with PO 203 on white then the finishing polish on a black pad. Until I met you I would have been very happy with the 3M result. Will pass comments on your influence when I see you after the nationals.

Have a hellova time over there.

Jack

rocket · « **Reply #526 on:** March 23, 2013, 10:01:16 pm »

Hi Jack, Yes... Water marks are difficult to remove. Your method sounds spot on.

When we return from the Nationals i am going to get some of the new Menzerna FG 500 which is supposed to have good cutting abilities - probably similar to the 3M Extra Cut.

I am sure you will be happy with the results after using the Po203S, but then you could refine it further with SF4000 followed by UF4500.

But make sure to get a couple of coats of wax or sealant on the paint straight after.

See you in a couple of weeks.

Rocket.

chopmgw · « **Reply #527 on:** April 01, 2013, 02:41:28 pm »

Well Ive put the 4 day easter break to good use and just spent a couple of days in the mancave .
Used the menzerna polish on the car and followed it up with the jetseal 109.
Stoked at the improvement.
Taped it all off and used the menzernaSF4000 on a white pad ( thanks Rod).
I used a supercheap buffer machine which I found had a mind of its own at times.
Might have to look at investing in a flex or a chinese copy at some stage.
After a good buff I gave it a water wash ,then dried and applies 2 coats of jetseal according to the instructions on the bottle.
Then buffed with a microfibre towel.
Pretty damn pleased.

rocket · « **Reply #528 on:** April 01, 2013, 04:11:16 pm »

Wow! Michael that is just dripping wet. Fantastic job.

How are your arms and back feeling at the moment?

Takes a long time to do the polishing, but with results like that it is sure worth it.

Rocket.

chopmgw · « **Reply #529 on:** April 01, 2013, 06:57:29 pm »

Quote from: rocket on April 01, 2013, 04:11:16 pm

How are your arms and back feeling at the moment?
Takes a long time to do the polishing, but with results like that it is sure worth it.

Thanks Rod. Its ur fault for inspiring me !
I gotta say, I spent about 15 hrs polishing, washing and applying the sealant.
To say I can feel it is an understatement not to mention the eyebrows working overtime on the missus !
This is not a 2-3 hr job.
Glad I went to the effort though.

jusTANG · « **Reply #530 on:** April 01, 2013, 07:14:42 pm »

great work

yes that pain, I remember that pain

Sally · « **Reply #531 on:** April 01, 2013, 09:52:48 pm »

Well done Michael you have been busy the car looks absolutely sensational, nice to sit back and see the job you have done, well worth the effort
Cheers. Chris&Sally

evan · « **Reply #532 on:** April 01, 2013, 10:29:42 pm »

Well done mate! Wait til you wax it, it'll look & feel even better. Try the DP Max Wax that Rocket recommended, it's brilliant!

Evan.

BLU302 · « **Reply #533 on:** April 02, 2013, 12:17:45 pm »

Great job, Michael - great to see another 68 coupe looking so good.
Cheers,
Bob

shaunp · « **Reply #534 on:** April 04, 2013, 05:11:46 pm »

Ok I've given an MGA that has been sitting for since 2007 when it was painted and cut a quick once over. I didn't spend a lot of time on it. Paint is super hard and could really do with a scuff in places. These cars have alloy skins on doors, bonnet and boot, because of the age of the alloy the paint tends to play up bit. In any case I'm selling it so I just wanted it looking nice. Bob loaned me his Menzerna and Concours machine. The polish is good, but on paint this hard maybe a 1500 grade would be worth having. The rest are fine I only used the Concours on the 4500, & rotorary for the rest, I find the random orbit way too slow, would like to try a forced rotation unit, as I find I just stall the concours with pressure. I'll get some new pads for the rotoraries we have and some Menerna when cut the 67 for sure and really spend some time on it. The MG I clayed it, then did Menerna 2000, 4000, 4500. It's pretty shiney certainly good enough to sit out the front of MG City for sale. Thanks to Bob for loan of his gear.

Sally · « **Reply #535 on:** April 04, 2013, 06:07:15 pm »

Looks great Shaun, good luck with the sale

BLU302 · « **Reply #536 on:** April 04, 2013, 06:57:11 pm »

Hi Shaun,
The MGA looks schmick now. You shouldn't have a problem selling it.
I'm glad you gave the Concours a go - at least now you know what suits you.
Good to get your feedback on the Menzerna - I was really happy with the results I obtained.
Cheers,
Bob

jusTANG · « **Reply #537 on:** April 04, 2013, 08:38:51 pm »

looks good shaun

rocket · « **Reply #538 on:** April 05, 2013, 06:51:55 pm »

Top job shaunp, looks fantastic.

I especially like that front shot showing the reflections of the clouds.

No doubt MG City would be proud to have that gorgeous looking car at the front of their display.

Your method is spot on. I agree that a slightly heavier cut for the first stage might make things a bit easier and will be trying that myself shortly with Menzena 500.

The Flex Forced Rotation Orbital has incredible grunt and will not bog down at all.

Rocket.

jusTANG · « **Reply #539 on:** April 05, 2013, 08:07:44 pm »

I was , well thought I read to not use to much downward force.
I have maybe been to soft......... never even looked like bogging the flex down.

Please set me straight.
I have a Audi that someone took a ....... to (can't use the word hurts too much) remove egg.
Going to get some heavier cutting to remove scratches in that location. Then was thinking 2500 the maybe 400 and 4500 the rest of car. Or do u think a newish car may benefit from a 2500 all round. Will clay etc first

rocket · « **Reply #540 on:** April 05, 2013, 08:43:18 pm »

Hi jusTANG, The general rule of thumb is to use the lightest combination that will do the job.

Maybe after claying the Audi, do a couple of test patches on the worst areas. Try the 2500 on an orange Lake Country pad and see how you go. If it takes it off easily, then try the 2500 with a white pad. However if it is hard going then go to a slightly heavier polish.

Jack told me of a good post he read on the Autogeek Forum - Put enough pressure on so that the dimples in the Lake Country pads are flattened out, but be careful - too much pressure can bow ( stretch ) or dent the panel. I prefer to use less pressure - Let the polish and pad do the work.

Rocket.

shaunp · « **Reply #541 on:** April 06, 2013, 12:34:01 pm »

Quote from: rocket on April 05, 2013, 06:51:55 pm

Top job shaunp, looks fantastic.

I especially like that front shot showing the reflections of the clouds.

No doubt MG City would be proud to have that gorgeous looking car at the front of their display.

Your method is spot on. I agree that a slightly heavier cut for the first stage might make things a bit easier and will be trying that myself shortly with Menzena 500.

The Flex Forced Rotation Orbital has incredible grunt and will not bog down at all.

Rocket.

When say bog down the motor has plenty of power, but if you use much pressure the random orit stalls if you know what I mean. So you loose the 2 direction motion.

rocket · « **Reply #542 on:** April 06, 2013, 03:00:00 pm »

Hi shaunp, Yes... I have experienced that many times when using a dual action sander/ polisher.

A few of us have the Flex 3401 VRG Forced Rotation Polisher which is in another class. It uses a gear operated Forced Oscillation. The Flex will not bog down at all - you would dent the panel first. Here is an excellent explanation by Mike Phillips from Autogeek -

All about the FLEX-3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher

Rocket.

mattstruck · « **Reply #543 on:** April 06, 2013, 05:23:54 pm »

Hi Rocket,

I have the Bosch which also has the forced oscillation.
When doing the 3 stage Menzerna polish do you used forced oscillation the whole time or do you change to random orbital at any stage??
Cheers

rocket · « **Reply #544 on:** April 06, 2013, 10:26:15 pm »

Hi mattstruck, I would certainly use the forced rotation mode for the final stage. This will ensure there are no holograms or buffer trails left in the paint.

Not sure about the first and second stage. Trial and error is probably your best bet. Depending on the pressure applied, maybe the random orbit will act a bit like a rotary ie just spinning rather than oscillating a lot of the time. Think i would do a test by using the random orbit on the first panel, then forced rotation on the next panel then compare finish and time taken on each panel.

Rocket.

Ash · « **Reply #545 on:** April 08, 2013, 07:32:23 am »

Hi Rocket,

Just saw that 3m are now doing a 5000 grit trizact. Looks like it would save a whole lot of time. Have you guys tried it out at all?

3M's Trizact 5000 Sandpaper

rocket · « **Reply #546 on:** April 08, 2013, 08:31:17 am »

Hi Ash, That is a very informative video.

Several years ago our painter at the time -Mick - tried using trizact at the suggestion of our supplier. We bought a palm sander and the discs and his first try was on a landcruiser he had just painted. He went right over the whole car with( i think) 3000 after giving it a wet rub with 1500 grit. Afterwards the whole body was full of those "Curly Q`s". He had to wet rub it again with 2000 grit to get rid of them. Gave up on trizact at that point. Thing is, in the video i see he was spraying water on the panel. Not sure whether Mick was doing that.

Couple of weeks back had a conversation with a friend who works as a detailer for a large panel/paint business who do lots of insurance work. His job is to do the final buffing and cleaning of the cars before they are returned to the owners. He absolutely swears by trizact. Might ask him to come down one day and show us how to use it properly.

He also told me another " trick of the trade" they use. When cars come to him from the painter he quite often finds those pesky pin holes in the paint. This is caused by outgassing from the finish below the topcoats and is very common in 2 pak paint jobs. He was using a filler type wax to hide them until a supplier told him another way to get rid of them. Just a little dob of super glue in the pin hole, followed by a quick wet rub, then machine polish and they are gone!

Rocket.

Ash · « **Reply #547 on:** April 08, 2013, 09:00:44 am »

No worries. I thought it was quite detailed and well explained. Easy to follow even for a newb to it all like me.

That's a good trick with the superglue. I guess in a shop where time is the factor, issues like that ("solvent pop" I think they also call it?) will be a pain to deal with. Handy trick to tuck away in the knowledge bank

I also liked how he said it was good for 3 panels per piece of paper. Gives you a good rough idea on what you would need to order. I've had difficulty finding that sort of info as it's a bit like how long is a piece of string when it comes to just how much consumables you will need and use.

Brumby1 · « **Reply #548 on:** April 08, 2013, 08:25:29 pm »

Hey Rocket
did you take note of the pressure advised by the bloke in the 3M vid? Certainly needed that pressure to cut my water marks out of the ute lid. Also #M perfectit extra cut compound.

Also let you know here I go back to work for a few weeks starting on Friday.
Jack

rocket · « **Reply #549 on:** April 09, 2013, 10:21:38 am »

Hi Jack, Yes... He said to apply enough pressure to flatten out the waffles on the pad - same as you told me last week.

You can`t get enough work in can you

Hope you remember how to set the alarm clock

When i retire - I aint going back! Will do plenty of this

and plenty of this

Have fun!

Rocket.

CAR POLISH

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Author Topic: CAR POLISH (Read 386794 times)