CAR POLISH

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Offline shaunp

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #475 on: February 25, 2013, 10:07:33 pm »
Hi Shaun,
The pads I have are the Lake Country pads . I got some extra from Chemical Guys at $15.95 less the 10 per cent discount - $14.40.
Your Rupes polisher definitely seemed to work faster and you looked pretty confident with it. As a starter machine the Concours did suit me and I'm pretty happy with the finished result. I think with your higher level of skill your idea of just finishing with my machine would probably get the best result.
Cheers,
Bob

No question Bob, the random orbit machine is the go if you have little practice at cutting paint, I really doubt you could burn the finish. The machine we used on Saturday was a 25 year old Ryobi, The Rupes is at the other shed, it is my preferred machine much heavier again it does the work for you. Gav was around for a beer this arvo, he thought the Menzera was good as well,  33 years of painting cars under his belt from jam, Nitro, E  & A type acrylic to current COB stuff. I mean we used to cut them with wool, Max, and corn flower and Tcut if they were something flash. Normally now we cut them with  2 grades of Ferecula  with and orange pad then a back waffle with 3m perfectit. I'll really put some time in to the 67, I'm going to put 3 coats of  Sikkens MS clear on it, scuff it out, then flow coat it, then cut it, with all the stages. I enjoyed your visit on the weekend, hope the boys picked up something, we were all young once.
« Last Edit: February 25, 2013, 10:19:40 pm by shaunp »

Offline shaunp

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #476 on: February 25, 2013, 11:35:27 pm »
Just did the LH side of the MG, useing a rotary, orange pad, 2000, 4000, 4500, then with the concours on the soft pad, with 4500, it looks pretty nice under fluro lights I have to say, and I didn't spend that much time on it. I layed into it though, couple of sink backs I may rub with 2000 yet.

Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #477 on: February 26, 2013, 08:43:07 am »
shaunp, Your thoughts are spot on. Professionals find the random orbital polishers way too slow, but in the hands of those who are not experienced with rotary polishers the random orbitals are very safe because they will not normally burn through paint. Although they are slower it is still possible to obtain superb results as seen by BLU302 and Evan.

I began a polishing job on the 69 Vert yesterday and experienced the fast v slow situation. First stage was Menzerna PF2500 on the Orange Pad using the Flex Rotary. Took about 30 minutes to do the bonnet and top of the guards. For the second stage i used the same polish on a White Pad,but this time i used the Flex Forced Rotation Orbital. Time to do the same section was about 90 minutes. Here are some photos -



 











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Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #478 on: February 26, 2013, 09:18:43 am »
Wet Rubbing

When preparing to start polishing the 69 Vert i gave it a quick wash with Quick Detailer and Microfibre Cloths, then rubbed the back of my hand over the area to be polished to check for any rough feeling areas. There were 2 such areas on the top of each guard. I gave each spot a going over with Clay which left them smooth for polishing -

   

However on the bootlid there was some overspray. Tried the Clay first, but found it could not remove the overspray. Only option was to Wet Rub it off.

When using Wet or Dry on a car you need to be extremely careful. Paint is only Microns thick, so care must be taken not to break through the clearcoat or you will ruin the paint job.
Do not use anything coarser than 2000 grit. Also, you do not just use your hand or fingers to rub or you risk putting fingermark indentations into the paint. The correct tool to use is a colour sanding Sponge/Pad. The Wet or Dry is cut into quarters. You put a piece into a bucket of water to soften it for about 20 - 30 minutes, then wrap it around the colour sanding Pad.
You need to have a little bit of running water while sanding the area. Just enough water flow to keep the area wet and remove the paint as it comes off. I use a Chux and just dip it in the water then squeeze it gently with one hand while rubbing with the other. It only took about one minute to cut through the overspray -

 











Then after dring the area off i buffed it with Menzerna PF2500. It looked good, but upon closer inspection from all angles i could still see a few scratches so i used a little cutting compound to eliminate them -







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Offline BLU302

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #479 on: February 26, 2013, 02:45:29 pm »
Looking forward to seeing how the MG turns out, Shaun. Do you think you'll need to use 2000 wet n dry - I thought the paint was pretty good - just needed final finishing.
Adam has organised the longer bolts for the front suspension arms and ordered the new master cylinder for my car - I think he's keen to progress on his car again.
Rocket - I love your explanations - it makes it a no-brainer to try. The marks I had on my front mudguard look like they were already through the clear coat but I have cleaned them up so they are barely noticeable - only problem is that I know they are there. I'll eventually get the guard repainted along with a small knock on the rear quarter where a loose object in the boot hit the side.
Bob

Offline shaunp

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #480 on: February 26, 2013, 03:48:54 pm »
Bob couple of chips to pencil touch, and rub, also couple little sink backs Ill knock the top off. You could use that pad  lube and 2000 to blend a small chip touch up I reckon.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2013, 03:50:56 pm by shaunp »

Offline chopmgw

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #481 on: February 27, 2013, 11:20:27 am »
The vert looks good Rod.
That Acapulco blue is a really nice colour and the 69 vert is a favorite of mine.
I can smell oranges !
Michael

Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #482 on: February 27, 2013, 12:14:35 pm »
Hi Michael, I agree with you - Acapulco Blue rocks.

I am using a slightly different method to polish this one. It has been sitting around for a couple of years now, so i am using a Cutting Compound for the first stage ( 3M Perfect-it no.1 )

Process is Stage1 3M perfect-it cutting compound with orange pad on the flex rotary

               Stage2 Menzerna PF2400 with white pad on the flex rotary

               Stage3 Menzerna SF4000 with green pad on the flex rotary

               Stage4 Menzerna Uf 4500 with black pad on the flex forced rotation orbital

Have already completed 4 stages on the bonnet, tops of guards and bootlid. Just now shot these photos are after completing the first stage down one side -







Thankfully it is a much cooler day today. Yesterday was a sweat fest!

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Offline Ash

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #483 on: February 27, 2013, 12:43:56 pm »
Process is Stage1 3M perfect-it cutting compound with orange pad on the flex rotary


Just curious, Rocket. Was this because of the overspray? Or did the paint need more of a cut?
Just curious to learn, I love reading this stuff!  :thumb:
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Offline shaunp

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #484 on: February 27, 2013, 03:51:43 pm »
Just curious, Rocket. Was this because of the overspray? Or did the paint need more of a cut?
Just curious to learn, I love reading this stuff!  :thumb:
What it's about is cutting it finer and finer and finer, to perceftly flat poilished surface, which would not norammly happen. Most panel shops would often not cut a car if it came of the gun well, maybe a spot cut for a paint flaw etc, then a quick once over to blend it in after a rub with 2000 or 1500 on the flaw.

Offline Sally

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #485 on: February 27, 2013, 04:00:25 pm »
Hi Michael, I agree with you - Acapulco Blue rocks.

I am using a slightly different method to polish this one. It has been sitting around for a couple of years now, so i am using a Cutting Compound for the first stage ( 3M Perfect-it no.1 )

Process is Stage1 3M perfect-it cutting compound with orange pad on the flex rotary

               Stage2 Menzerna PF2400 with white pad on the flex rotary

               Stage3 Menzerna SF4000 with green pad on the flex rotary

               Stage4 Menzerna Uf 4500 with black pad on the flex forced rotation orbital

Have already completed 4 stages on the bonnet, tops of guards and bootlid. Just now shot these photos are after completing the first stage down one side -







Thankfully it is a much cooler day today. Yesterday was a sweat fest!

Rocket.


ooohhhhh very very nice, Monique will champing at the bit to get that filly on the road
Sally

Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #486 on: February 27, 2013, 07:36:32 pm »
Just curious, Rocket. Was this because of the overspray? Or did the paint need more of a cut?
Just curious to learn, I love reading this stuff!  :thumb:

What it's about is cutting it finer and finer and finer, to perceftly flat poilished surface, which would not norammly happen. Most panel shops would often not cut a car if it came of the gun well, maybe a spot cut for a paint flaw etc, then a quick once over to blend it in after a rub with 2000 or 1500 on the flaw.

Ash, As shaunp wrote - It is all about levelling the paint eg eliminating peel, swirls etc.

After i wet rubbed the bootlid and buffed it with pf 2500, there were still some 2000 grit scratches remaining. So i used cutting compound which took those scratches out easily. Then i looked closely at the bootlid and saw a few more light scratches on the other side and figured it needed a higher level of cut. There was also just a bit of peel in the front guard. Decided to bite the bullet and use the cutting compound all the way around the car, knowing that it would eliminate any other fine scratches caused by people putting things on the body over the last couple of years. It Worked a treat.

Rocket. 

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Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #487 on: February 27, 2013, 07:41:22 pm »
ooohhhhh very very nice, Monique will champing at the bit to get that filly on the road
Sally

Hi Sally, Yes.... Monique has been extremely patient waiting for her car to be finished.

After the polishing job is finished the car will go to Regency for Registration, then it is all hers finally. Will be great to see her driving it. :thumb:

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Offline Ash

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #488 on: February 27, 2013, 07:46:57 pm »
Thanks for the reply guys. I had a feeling you used the stage 1 3M compound for a paint defect such as the peel and deeper scratches. I wanted to ask to be sure.

Cheers :thumb:
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Offline mattstruck

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #489 on: February 28, 2013, 10:45:20 pm »
God damn this is a good Thread!!
 :agree: :thumb:

Now to find the time to sit down and read the 20 odd pages :therethere:

Just bought a Bosch GEX 150 turbo.  Highly rated compared to the Festo RO 150.

Been wasting hours on autogeek and $270 on the basics (plus shipping)... expensive past time :omg: :cry:
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Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #490 on: March 01, 2013, 07:15:52 am »
Hi mattstruck, Glad you are enjoying the Thread

I think you made a good choice in buying the Bosch GEX 150 Turbo - There are a lot of good reviews on the net.

It will be well worth investing your time and money to make your Mustang Gleam :thumb:

Don`t forget - When ordering from Autogeek request USPS (US Postal Service) method of shipping as it is much cheaper. Goods arrive in about ten days.

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Offline Mustangpaul

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #491 on: March 01, 2013, 07:12:35 pm »
Cofucious say, always remember, if you want to be good karate kid, always remember wax on wax off, wax on wax off.
1967 Mustang Convertible with fries and the works, hold the rust, no timber thank you, go easy on the Bondo and I'll have that in Right Hand Drive please.

Offline mattstruck

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #492 on: March 01, 2013, 07:47:49 pm »
Just got email from auto geek.
Won't sell me jet seal or any chem guys gear internationally :thud:
Shipping to aus $115!!! USPS
Crikey!! Got to be a better option??
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Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #493 on: March 01, 2013, 07:49:23 pm »
Ahhsoooo......All looks very noble -



 But do you know what the old fart does while the grasshopper waxes on and off?



The rumor persists -



 :grin: :grin: :bolt:

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Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #494 on: March 01, 2013, 07:55:14 pm »
Just got email from auto geek.
Won't sell me jet seal or any chem guys gear internationally :thud:
Shipping to aus $115!!! USPS
Crikey!! Got to be a better option??

Yes... This has been going on for a while. I expect they are looking after the Australian Distributors.

You may have ordered some heavy gear. My last order for pads - about 1.5 years ago cost $80 via USPS.

Not to worry, you can buy Chemical Guys gear locally at good prices - see 2nd post on page 1 of this Thread for details. Pads can be bought from China pretty cheap. Good pads too - the diamond faced type. Will find a link for you shortly.

Edit - Here is the Link for those pads -  http://www.aliexpress.com/item/6PC-6-Diamond-Face-Foam-Buffing-polishing-pad-set-one-M14-Drill-Adapter-For-Car-polishing/739943400.html

What else did you order?

Rocket.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2013, 08:02:11 pm by rocket »
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Offline mattstruck

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #495 on: March 01, 2013, 09:02:52 pm »
Cheers Rocket. Bought 6 pads, 3 bottles menzerna (you recommended) clay block and spray lube.
$115 is crazy!  I recently bought a heap of large parts from the USA for $60 USPS!
$115 seems a bit crazy, maybe it's air express or something?!
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Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #496 on: March 01, 2013, 09:16:04 pm »
mattstruck, Yes... They send the parcel by International Air Express.

The weight of the 3 bottles of Menzerna would have pushed the cost up to the $115.

If you buy the Pads from China, the Jetseal, Clay and Lube from Chemical Guys and the Menzerna from Waxit, i think it would all price out to about the same as buying from the USA.

I am a big fan of Menzerna - Love the shine it produces. :thumb:

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Offline mattstruck

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #497 on: March 11, 2013, 04:15:03 pm »
Question for you Rocket! :thumb:

I have a 4x4 with "bush pin striping" all down the sides :tissue:

Whats the best way to tackle those?

Use a cutting compound with the bosch PEX 150 and a specific pad? 

Then clean off and do the Menzerna 3 stage polish?

Also the Mrs car has some scratches which Id like to tackle.  Not sure they'll buff out but worth a try I guess. 
Also hers has paint spatter on one side. Looks like some moron with a roller has painted too close to the car.
Wonder if the same product/ pad could tackle these issues too?
Cheers
Matt
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Offline rocket

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #498 on: March 11, 2013, 06:49:24 pm »
Question for you Rocket! :thumb:

I have a 4x4 with "bush pin striping" all down the sides :tissue:

Whats the best way to tackle those?

Use a cutting compound with the bosch PEX 150 and a specific pad? 

Then clean off and do the Menzerna 3 stage polish?

Hi mattstruck,  "Bush Pin Striping" Love it! :thumb:

Probably needs something like a Cutting Compound for the first stage. I used 3M Perfect-it No.1 on the 69 Vert which worked well. There is also a Menzerna Compound called FG500. I am going to try it next time because it is getting lots of praise on the detailing forums. Here is a chart -



I suggest you use either of the above ( Menzerna FG500 or 3M Perfect -it No.1 ) Try first with an Orange Lake Country Pad and if it does not remove them go to the Yellow Lake Country Pad. Follow that with a Menzerna 3 Stage Polish.

You could try the same Compound on your Wifes car. Not sure about the paint splatters. Maybe try Clay first.

There is a general rule of thumb with scratches in your paint - If you rub a fingernail across the scratch and do not feel an indentation it should buff out.

Rocket.

Also the Mrs car has some scratches which Id like to tackle.  Not sure they'll buff out but worth a try I guess. 
Also hers has paint spatter on one side. Looks like some moron with a roller has painted too close to the car.
Wonder if the same product/ pad could tackle these issues too?
Cheers
Matt
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Offline mattstruck

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Re: CAR POLISH
« Reply #499 on: March 11, 2013, 10:35:34 pm »
Cheers Rocket! :bow:
Thanks heaps mate,  when the gear arrives Ill give it a go and let you know. :evilone: 
Thanks again. :thumb:
Matt
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