Hey, I bought a 68 Fastback!

[67FBGT]

Where did you get the VIN # from?
If from the LH apron - visible at the centre upper edge of the LH guard - either in front of or within a purpose cut-out - then the shell is a '68. [BTW there would be a matching VIN # on the RH apron too but you'd have to unbolt & pull back the edge of the guard to find it, there was no cut-out that side].
However, if you got the VIN # from a door data plate rivetted on the rear face of the LH door then I'm guessing that  the doors are replacements taken from a '68 (clue - the internal RH door trim & door handle in the photo is definitely '68) while the rest of the car would be '67 going by the 1/4 panels (that's assuming the rear 1/4 panels are original, because with those are '67 'grilles' not '68, the latter design was totally different, dig up some photos to see for yourself). And '68s had the data plate up on the dash instead of the door.
Typically in the US doors got swapped on a mustang due to accident damage or rust & the original door data plate often didn't get swapped over, & then the car then ended up with mismatching VINs. Quite common by all accounts, have seen it myself several times.
Either way, that VIN # needs checking out to ensure no hassles come registration time.
If the shell does turn out to be '67, then there is no drama with keeping the '68 type doors - the only difference, should you wish to fit '67 trims on them to make the whole package more correct, is to drill new fixing holes for the '67 type door pulls as they have a different layout & length to the '68 type.
So, do your homework, educate yourself on these cars ASAP. You don't want to spend multi$$$$$ only to incur registration hassles, &/or end up with a mish-mash '67/'68 hybrid car that wouldn't appeal to many people come the day you decide to sell it.
Any questions, sing out - I have a '67 FB & know the '67/'68 series, as do several other regulars on this forum. Good luck, hope all goes well.

[GLENN 70]

Dont forget a 68 vin tag is up on the dash ,also you must get the original import approval paper not a copy ,if he does not show it to you DONT TOUCH IT ,no matter what he tells you ,walk away .Mate just get your holding deposit back and look for a better stang .Sorry for all the bad news but were not putting shit on you just looking after you .

[Bird]

Great info! This is definitely great information that I can take with me before the big day. Yeah, he told me he had the import approval, so will make sure it's the real deal. I guess we can work thru weird body parts (you realise, IF I buy it ----and it does seem a distant IF at the moment, that we're gonna have to name it Frankenstein- thanks to Stephen)
That photo of the vin no on that door is giving me the creeps...

[ponyride]

That photo of the vin no on that door is giving me the creeps...

It's OK, it's supposed to be there. That's the door data tag which contains the build details of the car along with the VIN. It is meant to be used in conjunction with the VIN on the dash ('68) or LH fender ('67) for ID purposes. No big deal if they aren't the correct rivets as per previous post, it's not a one owner unmolested car and things do happen over the years, the tag may have been taken off an original wrecked door and put on to a new one. It does seem an odd car though.

Get the VIN and the door tag info and run it through a decoder like the one on the following site to see what it is or is supposed to be:

http://www.mustangdecoder.com/decoder.html

[soc123_au]

Mate, dont worry too much about the door tag. You need to check the number stamped on the apron in the engine bay. If it starts with a 7 then it would be a 67 that has had the door swapped. 67s dont have the vin plate that shows through the front screen. The issue may be that the seller has an import approval for a door shell. Again not a major, you would need to apply for an import approval with the correct number on it. I would make it a condition of sale that the approval is in your hand before you part with the cash.

With your project, what is the overall plan? That can be a contributing factor on the decision on what is a decent starting point. Pretty much are you aiming for a Restomod or an original car? If you want original then steer away from this one, as a restomod it would be half a chance at the right price.

[StephenSLR]

as a restomod it would be half a chance at the right price.

... at the right price.

To me it seems either the guy bought it to make some money or was going to restore it and found he got suckered or that it’s going to be too much drama/expensive.

My guess was it sold for 5-7k in the US, he paid that amount yet again to import it and threw on a few k to make it worth his while.

s

[GLENN 70]

1964 1/2 to 67 the vin is stamped on the top upper flange of the left front fender apron ,1968 the vin is on an aluminum tag riveted  to the dash ,visible through the windscreen ,passenger side .That is the real vin spot ,door tags come and go .To import that car the vin has to have been checked out here and in the usa before exporting .The aust import approval must have that vin number from the dash with the name and address of the original importer .I would think that stang would have been around 5/7 grand tops as others have said another 4 grand tax and shipping so would owe 10 or 11,000 tops .

[StephenSLR]

The aust import approval must have that vin number from the dash with the name and address of the original importer.

When I imported mine there was a wrong digit on the cert. of title.  The importer and shipping company missed this and the mistake was also on the import approval.

On the chassis it reads 5R09, the Denver cert of title reads 5909 and luckily I spotted it. I had the cert. changed in L.A. and the importer applied for another import approval.

Whether Aus. customs would've picked it is anyone's guess but I didn't want to go through the hassle.

I was also told that mistakes on cert. of titles in the US aren't that uncommon.

Although mistaking a 7 for an 8 is a long shot I wouldn't be surprised if one or two vehicles have slipped through the net here with wrong numbers.

s

[GLENN 70]

Happens all the time ,its a big problem when you go to put rego on it ,you have to get the approval changed .

[soc123_au]

68s also are stamped on the aprons, left & right side. The tag visible through the screen is no guarantee as it is easily swapped.

[ponyride]

68s also are stamped on the aprons, left & right side. The tag visible through the screen is no guarantee as it is easily swapped.

I had a '68 with no tag on the dash. It appeared to be an all original car and I couldn't find evidence of it having been hidden under a replacement dash. There's some interesting discussion about missing VIN tags on '68s on forums (VMF from memory). A few theories thrown up including stuff ups in the change over period. It remained a mystery.

[R_Beckhaus]

Before we get too deeply into it, the car may at some point had a damaged door(inlc vin tag) replaced with one off a 68 from a wreckers.
cheers, Ron B

[Bird]

Thanks fellas.
Was a big gamble going for one like this that has been around on the internet a while. (I wasn't aware of it at the time) But not to worry...it's only money 
I guess my plan is to have a bit of fun with it, get it up and running, bit of a restomod car. I guess my main criteria is as long as it looks and runs with some dignity. And just hang out with guys and gals who love cars like these :), learn a bit along the way and try not to piss anyone off too much.
I am already feeling right at home on this forum. It's nice to be here.
Only a few more sleeps, heheh.

[Bird]

Mate, dont worry too much about the door tag. You need to check the number stamped on the apron in the engine bay. If it starts with a 7 then it would be a 67 that has had the door swapped. 67s dont have the vin plate that shows through the front screen. The issue may be that the seller has an import approval for a door shell. Again not a major, you would need to apply for an import approval with the correct number on it. I would make it a condition of sale that the approval is in your hand before you part with the cash.

Very interesting. As you have said, chances are it's a 67 with 68 doors. I will ask him to tell me where the vin number is. If there's no plate on the dash and only a vin on the apron with a 7 in it, then its a 67, and if it doesn't match the import approval vin then, that probably has the potential to be an epic fail? Is it tricky to reapply with correct vin?
Thanks again/
Peter

[StephenSLR]

I guess my plan is to have a bit of fun with it

That's what we all want but you don't want the experience to be a sour one or make you regret ever buying it.  If it has the wrong VIN on the import approval who knows what you're up for.

Let's say it's a 67 and it was imported as a 68 with the VIN taken from the door tag.

What if the 67 is stolen in the US or owes money?

If it doesn't get import approval with the original VIN for whatever reason, you won't be able to register it.

You make sure you cover all bases.

s

[Bird]

Yeah, I have just emailed the owner and asked if he can confirm there is a vin number on the dash or if the vin number on the apron in the engine bay matches the import approval.
I guess that is a step in the right direction. Hoping for a prompt reply. This is really what we need to know now, isn't it? I guess the weird mix of body parts might have a plausible explanation, but we need to confirm vin.
Will let u all know.
Cheers

[GLENN 70]

The vin on the car ,and hope there is  one on the dash if it is a 68 must match the import approval not butts or no rego for that car . 67 or 68 doesnt matter as a car but that paper work must match the year and numbers .

[69_stang]

Alot of good /sensible advise given here to a newbe fellas!! 

Bird, it's coming from people that know.
Hoping you are taking 'ALL' that is said on board.

This has ended, like this to a few others       

[Bird]

Absolutely.
The thing is; who writes the vin down on the import approval in the first place? One would think that they would logically use the apron or the dash vin if it's still there before using the inner door because, as mentioned, the doors could have been replaced due to some accident etc in its past? Anyway, owner still hasn't got back yet. Will be interesting.
I feel like giving you guys a big man-hug...

[StephenSLR]

The thing is; who writes the vin down on the import approval in the first place?

Whoever applies for the approval.  As in my case it was taken straight of the cert. of title.  My guess a mechanic doing the inspection jotted it down on a piece of paper and passed that on to whoever was filling in the form or he filled it himself and couldn't read his own writing.

In some US states the rego is very cheap and their pink slip process is non-existent, it seems as if they've got better things to worry about.

It could be they couldn't locate the VIN, read it properly or were just too lazy and looked at the door.

s

[GLENN 70]

In my case every time i take a car to the shipper they check the vin on the title and then go out to the car and check the vin to make sure they match . No match no shipping .As i said before no approval paper or  without matching details dont touch .

[soc123_au]

When the factory stamped the vins on the aprons the location can be a little haphazard. On my car the numbers wernt visible with the front guards in place. The L/H number had been stamped a bit close to the edge of the apron so was covered even with the cut out on the guard frame. I have also seen this on other cars.

When looking at the number as stamped in the apron it should look something like this.

*7R02C123456*

The first impression is a little star.
The first number denotes the last number of the year ie 7 for a 67 or 8 for a 68.
The next will be a letter denoting the factory it will be one of R , T or F. 
Next the 2 numbers denote body style, in your case for a fastback will be 02.
Then we have a letter telling us the engine code, most commonly a C it also could be A,J,K,S,Q,R or X. depending on if it is a 67 or 68.
The next 6 numbers are the unique body number.
Lastly another little star.

Only trust the number on the apron, if it doesnt have the little stars then it has been restamped, pretty common on cars that have had the aprons replaced, if a number was restamped at all.

If the number on the apron doesnt match the import approval dont panic. Just apply for an import approval to match the number. Just dont pay the balance of the purchase price until you have the approval in your hand.

All the above is only relevant if the car suits your needs, if it is rusty the RUN LIKE HELL!!! Check out the albums linked in my signature. It will give you an idea of what can be involved fixing a Lemon.

 

[StephenSLR]

Don't fall for an appraisal by internet

In all honesty I didn't think we'd uncover so much but I'm sure he's glad he sent us the photos.

Personally, if the VIN doesn’t match the one on the import approval and you're still keen for it I would request that the seller acquires the import approval before you buy it.

It shouldn’t be your responsibility, you didn’t import the car.

s

[scedd1]

Let's say it's a 67 and it was imported as a 68 with the VIN taken from the door tag.

What if the 67 is stolen in the US or owes money?

Please dont pass over this point.
If you buy this car with the wrong import approval, then try to get the right one and find out that the vin on the car has issues in the USA, you will end up with nothing and a big bill to go with your nothing.

[ponyride]

 In all honesty I didn't think we'd uncover so much but I'm sure he's glad he sent us the photos

In all honesty I didn't think we'd uncover so much but I'm sure he's glad he sent us the photos.

I really don't understand the comment on the quote but it's certainly taken out of context so why do it? Pointless exercise. Do you work at a tabloid newspaper?  :hmm3grin:

In the post which that quote was lifted from I suggested the OP put up photos for discussion which is what has happened and what people generally do on these forums. My point, as you know, was that your suggestion that someone puts up photos of a car and other people "appraise" it is not a good idea, as I said in that post (also excluded by you) too many things are lurking in these old cars that can be missed by photos. A decision can be made that both the buyer and forum "appraisers" would regret.

"Appraisal" means to give a valuation or estimate of worth. Although this car being basically a rolling shell (which wasn't known earlier) makes that a lot easier, I'll stand by my original suggestion that an appraisal is best left done in person, anything else is pretty dangerous and this car just proves it.

There are too many bad stories out there without promoting the whole "buy by photos" idea. If you did that with your car and it worked, that's great, you're lucky.

Hopefully now that the car has been discussed a fair bit, the OP is armed enough to continue negotiations (or not). I think jimyd's post pretty much nailed it though.