If you increase the horsepower, should you increase the oil capacity (sump size)

[Meaty0]

My '66 is in the midst of a major restoration and we've reached the stage of doing up the motor.   It's being kept at 289 cu in capacity but with new, upgraded internals (and externals) I expect the output to be around the 300HP mark.

We certainly have to upgrade the radiator size to cope with that, but I read somewhere that oil plays a big part in cooling the bottom end of the motor.  Should the sump size be increased to allow for the extra heat?  Are there any options to do this for the A Code 289?

Thanks guys,
Paul

[GLENN 70]

Only if you want to ,300 HP is nothing ,if you were racing around a track sure .You can buy aftermarket sumps or get yours winged out the sides .At 300 HP and not reving the tits off it std is ok .Bigger sumps are not for cooling an engine has to run at a hot temp 160 to 190 deg .

[Meaty0]

Cool! (Excuse the pun).  Thanks for that.

[Macka]

Paul, my understanding is the bigger sump is not there for cooling or keeping more in it, but better controlling it and allowing the pick up to never be without feed of oil. 

Most bigger sumps have moving windage trays which allow oil to move but not reduce feed when under cornering. hard power or braking.

A good sump is worth the extra dollars.

[DUNRITE66]

300HP IN A 289 IS A NICE NUMBER.... DON'T NEED TO DO TO MANY OTHER MODS TO COPE WITH THE EXTRA POWER..... I RAN A 3 CORE ORIG STYLE IN MY 289 WHEN IT HAD 300HP WITH A FULL SHROUD AND A FLEXI FAN AND IT WAS PERFECT...PUT A NICE SET OF 3.55 DIFF GEARS AND A SMALL CONVERTOR IN THE BOX IF YOU ARE RUNNING AN AUTO AND YOU WILL HAVE A TWO POT SCREAMER..... I WOULD PERSONALLY GO FOR THE BIGGER PAN..... 7 QUART .... CHEAP ENOUGH THESE DAYS .... VPW HAVE THEIR RTS SUMPS FOR ABOUT $200.... HADDAD/RUSSELL FOR ABOUT $300 AND ASR/HIGH ENERGY FOR AROUND SAME BUT THEY MAKE TO SUIT ANY APPLICATION...... YOU ENGINE BUILDER WILL  ADVISE YOU TO GO THAT WAY I WOULD THINK....

[66 Hertz]

Shelby's had a 7 Quart sump as standard......they are still readilly available.

[DUNRITE66]

My mates got one of those.  There are no baffles or anything internal to stop splashing  as far as I could tell.

[Meaty0]

300HP IN A 289 IS A NICE NUMBER.... DON'T NEED TO DO TO MANY OTHER MODS TO COPE WITH THE EXTRA POWER..... I RAN A 3 CORE ORIG STYLE IN MY 289 WHEN IT HAD 300HP WITH A FULL SHROUD AND A FLEXI FAN AND IT WAS PERFECT...PUT A NICE SET OF 3.55 DIFF GEARS AND A SMALL CONVERTOR IN THE BOX IF YOU ARE RUNNING AN AUTO AND YOU WILL HAVE A TWO POT SCREAMER..... I WOULD PERSONALLY GO FOR THE BIGGER PAN..... 7 QUART .... CHEAP ENOUGH THESE DAYS .... VPW HAVE THEIR RTS SUMPS FOR ABOUT $200.... HADDAD/RUSSELL FOR ABOUT $300 AND ASR/HIGH ENERGY FOR AROUND SAME BUT THEY MAKE TO SUIT ANY APPLICATION...... YOU ENGINE BUILDER WILL  ADVISE YOU TO GO THAT WAY I WOULD THINK....

Thanks Mate.  Speaking to the engine builder yesterday, we expect a bit more than 300Hp, but idling in traffic on a hot Brisbane afternoon will definitely need an upgraded radiator.  I think there's a four core radiator that looks original.

Thanks for the recommendations.  I'll go have a look at them. 

You might be interested to know that we're putting in a 3.55 Auburn 8" LSD and a 2500 stally!  Great minds think alike.

[Meaty0]

Hey Dale,

I LOVED the look of that sump.  Carroll never left anything to chance did he?   How resistant is it to cracking and getting holes from road debris?

[66 Hertz]

mate it is a casting and is as solid as a rock...........probably overkill on wieght & thickness, it is quite heavy, but looks the goods as you say

[66 Hertz]

My mates got one of those.  There are no baffles or anything internal to stop splashing  as far as I could tell.

Baffles?.....sure do!
 

 

 

 

[StephenSLR]

mate it is a casting and is as solid as a rock

The bad thing about castings is that if it does get hit hard enough it'll crack and the oil will spill, it's been known to happen whereas a metal sump will dent.

I'm sure there's been discussion on this here before, no?

s

[shaunp]

The bad thing about castings is that if it does get hit hard enough it'll crack and the oil will spill, it's been known to happen whereas a metal sump will dent.

I'm sure there's been discussion on this here before, no?

s

Agreed, I've fixed a good few Jag engines damaged due to holes in the cast sumps, the don't like speed bumps. Personally I don't think they need a big sump run a cooler if you are concerned or go get some good PM oil for it. PM is made in Brisbane, twice the zinc of Penrite, lasts twice as long.

[Meaty0]

Agreed, I've fixed a good few Jag engines damaged due to holes in the cast sumps, the don't like speed bumps. Personally I don't think they need a big sump run a cooler if you are concerned or go get some good PM oil for it. PM is made in Brisbane, twice the zinc of Penrite, lasts twice as long.

Thanks.  I'll stick to a std oil pan (steel) and have a look at the PM oil.  I think an oil cooler is going to add more things that can leak or break.

[Macka]

Meaty, have a look at the range by Canton.  They are very strong and a worthwhile addition.

[GLENN 70]

A std sump is ok ,unless you are racing ,a good oil and filter will do the job .No engine oil cooler needed ,but if running a auto, a trans cooler is a must .

[Meaty0]

Thanks guys.  I knew I'd get the help I needed in here.

[shaunp]

Just ring PM, they will mix you an oil to suit your application, but they will have an oil like Racing 50 or something that is good in an old school engine. Use their auto fluid and diff oils as well, it's all excelant stuff. We had a BA 1 tonner that the auto bloke said the box was toast, PM mixed an oil for it, that was 80k km ago. They also they will test the oil for you, and tell you when it needs changing. The quality of the additive package they blend would be better than any off the shelf oil you could buy at Super Cheap. The Porsche cup cars run PM. The LSD oil is good to, if you get noisy clutches, that other LSD oils won't shut up, the PM stops them rattling straight away.

[Meaty0]

A std sump is ok ,unless you are racing ,a good oil and filter will do the job .No engine oil cooler needed ,but if running a auto, a trans cooler is a must .

The new radiator has a trans cooler connection I think - but I might get a stand alone version if we can find room for it.

[Macka]

Here's one of mine.  It's a Canton brand and holds 9 quarts, the pickup sits neatly into the fenced 4 way gate area (like the Cobra one).  It stops oil splashing around and maintains a level to be there for the pickup during hard braking, accelleration and hard cornering.  It has a oil temp sender and powerful magnet for picking up any nasties floating around between services.

It's a no brainer if (increase HP = driving engine harder).

[Meaty0]

Wow!  That's an awesome piece of kit Macka.  Did you have any problems fitting it in?