Author Topic: Local subframe connectors (Read 11146 times)

fordtj69 · « **Reply #25 on:** April 02, 2012, 08:59:28 pm »

hi ash

i got a set from tinman sent to my shipper about $200 del by tinman plus $50 to put in a cont - and fit well welded in looks good
cheers tim
:drink:

Ash · « **Reply #26 on:** April 02, 2012, 09:45:17 pm »

Thanks for the feedback Tim, I was cruising their site again today. That's great to know

When did you fit yours, during a restore as a shell or as a complete car?

Have you been through a rego check with them in place?

Thanks again!

fordtj69 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:31:57 am »

hi ash
yes full nut and bolt build with righthand conversion the gent working on my car said they fit well and are strong frame connectors welded in and painted will look factory i trust him as he has 40 years experience in stangs can't wait to get it back to finish it off
cheers tim
:drink:

fordtj69 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:36:06 am »

hey ash
i see your on the 69 stang site look at buckeye build photo's now thats a set frame/c
cheers tim
:drink:

Ash · « **Reply #29 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:44:10 am »

Hey Tim,
I bet you're itching to get it finished off! The more time I spend with mine, the more I get keen to get behind the wheel. But at the same time I'm enjoying every bit of rebuilding it.
I finished reading buckeye's build thread last week. Took me most of a week to read it! There is so much detail in it and those connectors look exactly how Ford SHOULD have done it!

Dingo80 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 04, 2012, 02:46:41 pm »

I too have been looking for a while at subframe connectors. Was going to go the 3 or 4 link route but thinking subframe connectors and tramp rods are much cheaper and leave room for other things. I was having trouble getting firm prices from various companies in USA for shipping but they do seem to vary quite a lot.

I personally think weld in is much more preferable. I have been looking at the Tinman fabrication ones but I found the link posted earlier on making subframe connectors very interesting and am considering going that way.

I believeslotting the subframes into the existing chassis tubes is the preferred way and they will be much stronger and being the unibody chassis twists a lot I would worry bolt in would fatigue over time.

If you look on the Tinman fabrication website they have a video of how to install theirs which would be the same as the link shown earlier making your own.

http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm?ptype=results&category_id=60&home_id=59&mode=cat&cat60.htm

Ash · « **Reply #31 on:** April 04, 2012, 06:02:03 pm »

Thanks for that Dingo, I agree with all of what you said.

I also had found the installation video the Tin Man guys did. It does look pretty straight forward.

I'm still yet to price some steel to make them when following those instructions. I'd like to so I could compare to simply buying them outright. I'm sure it wouldn't be a great deal for the steel alone.

I looked last night on Summit as they sell the Tin Man set. They have them a bit cheaper, $164.85

plus Additional Shipping Charge $101.53
Delivery and Handling Charge $11.95

Estimated Total $278.43

Dingo80 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 04, 2012, 09:03:21 pm »

I just realised I somehow missed Tim's posts. When I emailed Tinman they said they just had an Australian customer that had a set sent to Cal and then he shipped it himself. Must of been you Tim.

I like their traction bars too as they are adjustable but seems they are too new and Summit or Jegs don't stock them yet.

Let me know which way you go Ash as obviously just ordering them is easier but making them could be an interesting project. They seem like quite good instructions. Might have to see if I can find a few more more drawings on the net and compare them side by side. I know each car will be different alignment wise and stuff so that could be a factor in it too.

fordtj69 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 04, 2012, 10:41:56 pm »

hi guy's

when i got my set sent over we tryed to bend up a copy set with no luck on the bend's and a bloke who could do it wanted $40 a bend x 6 so gave up just get them from the states the people from tinman are great to deal with
cheers tim
:drink:

Dingo80 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 05, 2012, 01:52:12 pm »

I just sent Summit an email to find out how much to ship the new subframe connectors and traction bars as a kit. I'll post up when I get an answer for those who are interested.

Tim, how was the quality of the subframe connectors? Looks pretty good from the pictures but don't really know till you see them first hand

Ash · « **Reply #35 on:** April 05, 2012, 07:22:20 pm »

That'll be interesting to hear what they say, Tim.
I hadn't considered the traction bars. I don't know if I'd need them. I don't ever plan to go to a drag strip and there are no traffic lights here in town to be a hero at.

Would there be any other reason I should need them? I'm no hoon, I do like to have fun but have always been too much of a tight arse to waste rubber.

Dingo80 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 06, 2012, 02:52:22 pm »

Tractions bars are just to stop leaf spring wrap up on acceleration and deceleration. As to whether you need them or not is up to you. I am still running 14" wheels and with about 400hp I get it bad. About to fit some 17" wheels so I can fit my front coilovers, will see how it goes then but I imagine it will be worse will more traction on the tyres.

Summit got back to me today and to get the Mustang GenII subframe connectors and traction bars (US$579.99) there is a $12.95 handling fee + postage depending on who you go with ranging from $246.78 with DHL to $376.40 with UPS Saver.

mert · « **Reply #37 on:** April 07, 2012, 10:28:25 am »

Lurking on this thread for awhile... two questions...

1. why cut the end and insert the connectors? Seems a U over the top welded all around and plugged would do the same. And if you kept the saem profile a slightly larger box sectipon - stronger.

2. on the bars, considering the Cal Tracs or Slide-a-links, anyone used either? The slide-a-links slook pretty slick, bolt-in, no welding. $400 US, plus shipping...

http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/CategoryDisplay.asp?CatCode=13116

Ash · « **Reply #38 on:** April 07, 2012, 10:53:10 am »

Quote from: mert link=topic=17462.msg175757#msg175757

1. why cut the end and insert the connectors? Seems a U over the top welded all around and plugged would do the same. And if you kept the saem profile a slightly larger box sectipon - stronger.

That's a good point!

mert · « **Reply #39 on:** April 07, 2012, 08:25:47 pm »

"sectipon"??? :banghead:

Dingo80 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 07, 2012, 09:57:41 pm »

I see your point in 1. Can't really see much difference between slotting it in or or a U or C section.

I have looked at Caltracs and the Slide-a-link. Caltracs have been around for years. Main reason I was looking at the Tin man was it was a complete package. Can save a little on shipping then. Their traction rods are similar system to Caltracs.

Guessing it's 6 of 1 and half dozen of the other. Would be nice if there were some people out there who have had each one for some feedback but all would work on the same principle.

mert · « **Reply #41 on:** April 08, 2012, 09:25:50 am »

If you are talking about these from Tinman:

They are somewhat different to the Cal Tracks and Slide a links. Thse are more like the OEM Traction Masters (but look like they may be adjustable, hard to tell). Bolt to shock bracket on axle and weld/bolt to frame. Cal Trac's and Slide links have a bushing that replaces the front leaf one and then bolt to the shock bracket, direct tension on the spring...

Very similar, but slightly different geometry and results. Debates go both ways on if one is significantly different to the other for most street cars...

unilec5544 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 09, 2012, 02:10:00 am »

I would think that the reason they are slotted into the existing rails is so that it looks more original with a smoother finish and also a good time to check inside the rails for rust removal and primer.

Pash · « **Reply #43 on:** April 09, 2012, 12:46:10 pm »

Hi guys,

very intresting info on this thread. i dont want to hjack but im intrested in getting a set of subrame connectors for my 67 vert.
I guess getting 2 sets might halve the shipping fee?

Also is it straight forward fitting the SC in a vert?

Ash · « **Reply #44 on:** April 09, 2012, 01:26:55 pm »

I'm not too sure exactly Pash but I know the vert sets are different to the coupe/fastback's so just be wary of that.

Pash · « **Reply #45 on:** April 09, 2012, 04:46:55 pm »

yeah thats true Ash, just found a youtube video from tinman. I need to cut the seat pan and slot it in. too much work for me to do!

Can anyone recommend someone to do it in Syd?

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Author Topic: Local subframe connectors (Read 11146 times)