Author Topic: Ooops, wrong hole (s) (Read 33389 times)

Ash · « **Reply #50 on:** May 15, 2011, 09:17:12 pm »

I was told when I first started talking to the seller that the car had a slight vibration and he wanted it fixed before I bought it so he sent the shaft he had off. When he gave me the invoice for the returned shaft it looks like it was completely redone. I'll have to dig it out and I'll write down what it says.

Going from a quick look back the box is a RUG AJ.

69candy · « **Reply #51 on:** May 15, 2011, 10:02:06 pm »

Quote from: jiffy link=topic=14393.msg147443#msg147443

Aha, the plot thickens...
A custom tailshaft implies that the trans is a different length to normal, which means the lengths of stuff under there is wrong.

What's the tag on the passengers side of the trans say? Up by the front two bolts into the bellhousing.
Ideally RUG AE, AE1, AE2, AZ or similar?

The tag info is important do decide what you're working with...

Geez jiffy, what don't you know!!!:agree: you need to spend more time with that 67? soft top I saw a photo of you with.

:yellowpepper:
have you pulled the shaker off and had a look at the base of it?? can send you a pic of mine if it will help, as it is off the car

Ash · « **Reply #52 on:** May 15, 2011, 10:59:49 pm »

No sorry, haven't got the shaker off yet. I'm still yet to put a tool of any sort on the car.

jiffy · « **Reply #53 on:** May 15, 2011, 11:26:35 pm »

I spend a lot of time becoming a Mustang bore...
Think AJ is long output shaft (27 inch instead of 24) from a Torino.
Likely to make little difference to engine angle other than xmember.

I have a CJ cross member you can borrow & try when you're ready...

Gotta go take the top off that 67 now... 'night

jiffy · « **Reply #54 on:** May 16, 2011, 10:51:11 am »

Here's the 'correct' P/S pulley ($275USD repro) for your car - won't work with those existing pulleys, but it's the right one...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80B-Power-Steering-Pulley-428-Cobra-Jet-Mustang-Shelby-/180667588154?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a10a09e3a

Makes it easy to decide not to proceed with an original one doesn't it...

Ash · « **Reply #55 on:** May 16, 2011, 04:12:30 pm »

That's a whole lot of money for a pulley, WOW!

I'll keep that cross member in mind for when the time comes. So thank you for the offer!

Ash · « **Reply #56 on:** May 22, 2011, 03:42:46 pm »

What are your opinions on Elgin products?

I was expecting to get some Harland Sharp oversize rocker shafts but what turned up, when I finally opened the box, was a set of Elgin shafts that look like stock replacements.

Should I leave them in their packets and order what I originally wanted or are they ok?

Cheers, Ash

Ash · « **Reply #57 on:** May 24, 2011, 04:19:12 pm »

Finally got the shaker off and here are some pics of it.

Here is the engine without the shaker

And how it sits. I think it looks pretty level and doesn't appear to be leaning back in any extreme way. But am I wrong?

This is the intake, a Edelbrock performer RPM 7105

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-71054/?rtype=10

I also found this which will definitely be leaking air

And all these going no where which could also be a possible leak

blackthunder1970 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 24, 2011, 05:01:14 pm »

hi ash
so its a fibre glass shaker
you need to get a real one
the rpm intake will move it back and raise the height though the bonnet
it still the cross member
barry

Ash · « **Reply #59 on:** May 24, 2011, 05:07:07 pm »

Hi Barry,

Will a real shaker change the way it sits much or are these fibreglass close?
I can't imagine them being cheap but will it change it that much? I'm guessing it must do from what you said this intake should raise, not drop.

What is your opinion on the Elgin products as well? Not sure if you saw my previous post in regards to rocker shafts.

This is the correct cross member too, yes?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110688959243&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Thanks!

blackthunder1970 · « **Reply #60 on:** May 24, 2011, 06:37:28 pm »

hi ash
no experence with fibreglass ones
i only have real ones
you will pay around 2500 for a complete one
never used elgin products
hard to tell about cross member
pics not detailed enought
jeff might be able to clue you in better
barry

Ash · « **Reply #61 on:** May 24, 2011, 06:44:13 pm »

Quote from: blackthunder1970 link=topic=14393.msg148155#msg148155

you will pay around 2500 for a complete one

Snapping duck shit!!:shocked:
Looks like I'll be modifying this one to sit properly. Might hold off for a little while on an original one. That little while will most likely be a very long while.

Thanks for the info Barry, as always it has helped a lot:thumb:

69candy · « **Reply #62 on:** May 24, 2011, 08:14:22 pm »

If its a good glass one it will not effect the way it sits. Also looks like no spacer under the carb, so maybe the cross member as sombody suggested. could also be the rubber mount on the cross member??

Ash · « **Reply #63 on:** May 24, 2011, 08:28:39 pm »

I've still got to get under there to check it out more. Today was the first day I've put a spanner on the car since it arrived. Pretty time poor at the moment so hopefully can try that out soon. I just really don't think it will take up the entire height it needs to go if the cross member is raised. I believe the shaker needs to be over an inch higher at the back, that would make the gearbox needing to be maybe 3 inches higher or more.

There is also that chance the mount is shot, but everything else on the car is either new or near new. The owner went out of his way a great deal to fix much less issues before I bought it, if the mount was shot he would have had it replaced. But I wont know for sure until I get it out.

No spacer on the carb either. But if there was the front of the shaker would not allow the bonnet to shut.

jiffy · « **Reply #64 on:** May 25, 2011, 03:26:19 pm »

The vacuum lines should go to the front of the distributor via the vacuum tree on the thermostat housing.
The tree has 3 fittings - the middle one goes to the advance on the distributor, I think that the top one to the ported vacuum from the carb (you'll need to find it on this carb) and the bottom one to manifold vacuum (or it could be the other way around for these two).

Anyway, the timing is set with vacuum blocked off, then connect the hoses and the timing at idle gets retarded slightly and the idle speed slows slightly. If the car idles too long, it overheats and the vacuum switch routes pure manifold vacuum through, advances the idle speed and cools the engine with more fan drawn air.

Think you need to check the angle of the carb top with a known good one - then statrt replacing stuff with OEM ford to get it right (or just make a angled spacer)

jiffy · « **Reply #65 on:** May 25, 2011, 03:28:03 pm »

Disconnect the driveshaft, then try to lift the rear of the trans with your foot or a jack.

If it moves off the xmember then you know the mount is shot.

Ash · « **Reply #66 on:** May 25, 2011, 10:16:20 pm »

The vacuum on the dizzy is also blocked off. Which I thought weird.

I think I need to remove all these and set it up properly with some fresh hoses. Then they will be right.

This also running twin thermos, in regards to what you mentioned for engine cooling and dizzy set up.

What should the angle of the carb top be? I can measure this one with a spirit level and digital angle measure.

I'll try my best to check out this cross member over the weekend.

Cheers!

Ash · « **Reply #67 on:** May 29, 2011, 11:21:54 am »

Quote from: jiffy link=topic=14393.msg148250#msg148250

Think you need to check the angle of the carb top with a known good one - then statrt replacing stuff with OEM ford to get it right (or just make a angled spacer)

I just measured the angle of the carb top as it sits on my shed floor with a spirit level and a digital angle rule.

I came up with less then a degree off horizontal. Which is pretty negligible.

So to assume the carb is sitting correctly, that could rule out the angle of the engine, yes? Putting the angle of the shaker down to the shaker itself?

Ash · « **Reply #68 on:** May 29, 2011, 02:14:58 pm »

Just pulled the dipstick, was on the phone walking around so had a sticky beak. The engine is full of censored Aing water:soap: Not happy and it would also explain another reason why it was running so shit.

Pinto Pete · « **Reply #69 on:** May 29, 2011, 02:50:47 pm »

not good mate,head gaskets more than likely. on the positive side ,if you rebuilt it then YOU know what you've got and dont have to take someone elses word for it..

rattusrex · « **Reply #70 on:** May 29, 2011, 04:19:40 pm »

Damned Yankees have struck again! Eddie

Ash · « **Reply #71 on:** May 29, 2011, 05:05:20 pm »

I don't believe it is a head gasket. At first I thought it was but when I checked the radiator it is still full. And when I put the dipstick back in the level is about 2/3's of the way up the dipstick. So the radiator level should be much lower to account for the dipstick level.

Here's the breather

I'm thinking it could have go through the breather seals on the rocker covers. They don't completely seal. Maybe when the engine bay has been washed or some other way some how. There is just a huge amount of water in the block to account for. Do you think this size opening would be enough though?

Pinto Pete · « **Reply #72 on:** May 29, 2011, 06:04:12 pm »

stick the end of the hose in there maybe, a wash not likely, if you dont think think its gaskets change the oil and see what happens, ya never know fingers crossed

Ash · « **Reply #73 on:** May 29, 2011, 06:16:43 pm »

Plan is to buy a few containers of crappy mineral oil and flush it out like you said. I'll be crossing every finger and toe to hope it'll stay clear.

It was on an uncovered truck when it went from Louisana to California. It was on the very back of the truck pointing nose up. If it had rained a lot is it possible you reckon for water to run across the rocker covers and to drain in?

I'm scratching my head here, its a lot of water:shrug:

Pinto Pete · « **Reply #74 on:** May 29, 2011, 06:30:40 pm »

um no, when running does it sound a bit like it has a leaking ex manifold ? also runs like a bag of shit ?if so 99% chance it's gaskets actually was supprised when I saw your photos of how it was transported did mine from denver to cal in an enclosed transporter didnt even think of the other way.

Ooops, wrong hole (s)

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Author Topic: Ooops, wrong hole (s) (Read 33389 times)